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orangeblast
11-30-2005, 12:34 PM
SO I can get CDT ES620s for about 275 shipped and taxed. Which is a good deal of course.

I've been out of the loop with car audio for roughly 5 years now...and I'm getting my new suv and I want something nice in it.

After browsing around a bit here on the forums....I came across a company called DLS. I also noticed alot of people comparing the CDT ES620s to the DLS Iridiums....

in a nut shell...how is DLS?

If it helps out at all...this would be my HU and amp for the speakers:

Clarion DRZ9255 <---- Unless someone can convincme to go with an eclipse unit and why.

Amp = US Amp AX600.... 190x2@4OHMS

what do you think?

also..how expesive is the Raindow Reference series usualy go for....I was checking out the CS 360.30 and the CS 260.30.

thanks!

stevcha
11-30-2005, 12:43 PM
If you're interested I have a set of Rainbow Profis Vans for sale:

http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=128697

Beat_Dominator
11-30-2005, 12:49 PM
As I have not heard a set of Rainbows yet I cannot attest to their quality though what I see looks pretty nice.

The DLS tweeters are supposed to be less bright than CDT's and the midrange is fairly close between the two. The HU and amp choice are a good match for either.

3.5Max6spd
11-30-2005, 12:50 PM
Official 2005 Rainbow MSRP prices
http://www.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=99393&highlight=Official+Rainbow+price

I would compare the ES and Iridiums to the Profi line

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 12:54 PM
Anyone hear the CDT ES620's?? They have a higher RMS than the HD series if that matters much.

I guess in the long run....to only have to pay around 275 to get ES620s...that would probably be my best bet. what do you think?

flakko
11-30-2005, 12:59 PM
yea 275 is a freakin good price for the ES's

3.5Max6spd
11-30-2005, 01:00 PM
Anyone hear the CDT ES620's?? They have a higher RMS than the HD series if that matters much.

I guess in the long run....to only have to pay around 275 to get ES620s...that would probably be my best bet. what do you think?

your best bet would be to hear them first, rather than use price as a deciding factor- its been quite a long time since ES commanded anywhere near their supposed price tag- that is because you can buy the vifa drivers and build your own set for a fraction of even that price you are paying

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 01:01 PM
I've never ever come across component speakers that expensive before. Those reference speakers are soooooooooo much money from Raindbow. Good lord! Anyone hear those before? What do they sound like?

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 01:02 PM
your best bet would be to hear them first, rather than use price as a deciding factor- its been quite a long time since ES commanded anywhere near their supposed price tag- that is because you can buy the vifa drivers and build your own set for a fraction of even that price you are paying


What exactly do you mean by buying the vifa drivers and building my own set?

3.5Max6spd
11-30-2005, 01:08 PM
What exactly do you mean by buying the vifa drivers and building my own set?
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=3101677.25613&pid=1373
http://www.cdtaudio.com/eurosport_drivers.htm

Its no secret CDT uses Vifa drivers

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 01:13 PM
Well that kind of lame. but at www.madisound.com I found no 6 1/2 inch vifa driver. whys that?

Also just to clarify...its not the CDT ES Z series I can get its the regular ES series.... NO Z. just what are the differences anyways....cdt doesn't really make it clear what it is between the regualr ES series and the ES Z series.

DiamondFanatic
11-30-2005, 01:14 PM
If you are getting a DRZ9255 I would consider getting enough amp channels to go active on your speakers... Like a 4 channel instead of a 2 for your front speakers. Then you could just buy the raw drivers, not need the crossovers.

3.5Max6spd
11-30-2005, 01:17 PM
Well that kind of lame. but at www.madisound.com I found no 6 1/2 inch vifa driver. whys that?

Also just to clarify...its not the CDT ES Z series I can get its the regular ES series.... NO Z. just what are the differences anyways....cdt doesn't really make it clear what it is between the regualr ES series and the ES Z series.

I believe its only a xover difference...CDT makes lots of $$ selling upgrade passives that 'promise' a SQ difference, kinda retarded IMO. If one xover is better than another for a set of drivers, why offer both? kinda stingy way of making money selling the same product

Unless you are doing 3way active fronstage + sub, you dont 'need' a DRZ9255, and could put that $$ difference where it counts the most, better speakers. You can run a passive fronstage, with about any deck these days- plenty of 24 bit decks out there. And plenty of 2way active fronstage + sub capable deck choices.

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 01:21 PM
so....in a way. I could get the ES620s and just buy their high end xovers? and then technically have a Z series?


also...what is active? what do you mean buy that?

DiamondFanatic
11-30-2005, 01:24 PM
You wire the woofers directly to the amp, and the tweeters directly to the amp. Then you adjust the crossover points for the drivers on the amplifier itself, or with the DRZ9255. That way you can keep independent time alignment and EQ curves with the DRZ.

3.5Max6spd
11-30-2005, 01:30 PM
so....in a way. I could get the ES620s and just buy their high end xovers? and then technically have a Z series?


also...what is active? what do you mean buy that?

Active mean you dont use the crossovers from the speaker set. You use the xovers from the HU- active mean you filter freqs digitally within the HU before they go out to the speaker before the amplifier, rather that leaving it up to a xover to filter in line with the speakers after the amplifier-this causes saturation and power loss, but at the same time some protection.

The DRZ's main use is for active setup.

Active-> each speaker requires its own channel of amplification, each gets a channel of signal from the HU. So 4 total speakers require 4ch amp for example.

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 01:30 PM
I see...so no passive crossovers? So I'd get my Es620's and basically just not install the crossovers....and then hook up the tweeters and mids to a 4 channel amp straight? isn't there a special way I'd have to run the wires?


why exactly is this better? I mean it sounds like a cool idea becuase I don't have to find a place to put the xovers. Is this better SQ too?? going active and all.

purerx7tt
11-30-2005, 01:31 PM
I have a rainbow pro cs230 5.25" comps for sale. Paid 500 shipped from speed sound, i want 300+ shipping, on ly 10 hours of use. Its in the for sale section.

Beat_Dominator
11-30-2005, 01:35 PM
I see...so no passive crossovers? So I'd get my Es620's and basically just not install the crossovers....and then hook up the tweeters and mids to a 4 channel amp straight? isn't there a special way I'd have to run the wires?


why exactly is this better? I mean it sounds like a cool idea becuase I don't have to find a place to put the xovers. Is this better SQ too?? going active and all.


Going active is all about control. If you want a system you can install, tune and be done, DO NOT go active. It can be too much control if you know what I mean.

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 01:37 PM
and by too much control you mean to the point where you'd never be satisfied? too many options?


also...I can't find any of the RMS's and Maxes of the CDT ES602 mids and the TW-25 tweeter...i wouldn't know what 4 channel amp to get anyways!

Beat_Dominator
11-30-2005, 01:38 PM
Exactly :)

alphakenny1
11-30-2005, 01:40 PM
yes if you have that clarion drz9255 i would go active to use the features that the 9255 offers that others HUs don't. Better yet really use the clarion drz9255 and go get a 3 way active frontstage. oh i wish the eclipse had that.

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 01:46 PM
3 way active frontstage??

alphakenny1
11-30-2005, 02:01 PM
i dunno if i had a clarion drz9255, i would get a 3 way frontstage and go active with it. the clarion drz9255 is the only HU to my knowledge that can support a 4 way setup (low, midbass, midrange, and high) without the use of an external processor. what i mean by 3 way active frontstage is go buy a set of tweeters, midbass and midrange. hook it up to your amp and set the crossover pts and slopes through your HU. but it seems like you don't know what active is so i dunno if i would suggest that you dont go active unless you read up more on what to do though.

3.5Max6spd
11-30-2005, 02:05 PM
and by too much control you mean to the point where you'd never be satisfied? too many options?


also...I can't find any of the RMS's and Maxes of the CDT ES602 mids and the TW-25 tweeter...i wouldn't know what 4 channel amp to get anyways!

No such thing as too much control...every vehicle and its dynamics are different, each vehicle presents various reflection and beaming points for a driver- why be stuck at a certain xover point? Specially when the speaker positioning will dictate where you xover points need to be to acquire proper staging/imaging.

The only reason I'm going into detail here, because apparently you dont know much on the subject- is because you are considering a $1300 HU. There's no point in buying all this high grade gear to achieve mediocre sound and not use the equipment to its potential.

Beat_Dominator
11-30-2005, 02:09 PM
No such thing as too much control...every vehicle and its dynamics are different, each vehicle presents various reflection and beaming points for a driver- why be stuck at a certain xover point? Specially when the speaker positioning will dictate where you xover points need to be to acquire proper staging/imaging.

The only reason I'm going into detail here, because apparently you dont know much on the subject- is because you are considering a $1300 HU. There's no point in buying all this high grade gear to achieve mediocre sound and not use the equipment to its potential.


Yeah but let the guy get a good start, then he can upgrade as he sees fit. Sure it'll end up costing more but that's what a hobby is all about.

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 02:14 PM
True. Acitve does sound a bit more complicated...but in the long run it would sound better I'm sure. I feel that the only pain in the *** part will be the tweaking and tunning..but that I can deal with. With any kind of system there will be tunning. As for putting in a 3 way component system...what kind of amp would I get for that....a 4 channel sure but.....would I wire the tweeter with the midrange together and then wire the mid bass by istelf to a channel? Also...I don't think I'd be able to put a 7 a 4 and a 1 inch tweeter all together in my door. Not enough room and i don't want to fabricate any kind of crazy kick panels. Want to keep the look stock for security reasons and "of ease" reasons. The only way I can see it working is if I take off my 6x9 speaker...then...use some MDF to make a converter...and maybe squeez in a 7 and a 4 together side by side...then put the tweeter where the other stock tweeter in the door above the arm rest and be done with it.

Beat_Dominator
11-30-2005, 02:15 PM
For a 3-way a 6ch. amp is an easier choice.... do a search about them, we just had a thread about good 6ch. choices.

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 02:22 PM
As far as getting that DRZ9255....yes I know its high end. I like the look of it and i'm a huge audiophile...but on a budget....thats why I'd get an expensive HU and get some O.K./Good speakers.

I have an understanding for the usual typical setups but this Active stuff is quite new to me. Didn't know you could do that to be quite honest...it would save quite a bit of trouble trying to find a place for the xovers.

Also.. I know eclipse makes crazy stuff and I have been eyeing the CD8455 becuaes I does feature some really good control over your sound and staging and image and all that stuff.

alphakenny1
11-30-2005, 02:23 PM
as for the 3 way active frontstage you probably needs some kick panels. thats what most people do for a 3 way frontstage setup. if you were going to run an 3 way active frontstage with the clarion, the clarion has 4 sets of preouts (3 for fronstage and 1 for sub) so i would get either a 6 channel amp or a 4 channel and a 2 channel to run the frontstage. or you can run two 4 channel amps. use 6 channels for the fronts and bridge the other two for subs if you want. if you don't want kick panels then i would suggest get an eclipse 8455 and run just a 2 way active fronstage.

3.5Max6spd
11-30-2005, 02:25 PM
True. Acitve does sound a bit more complicated...but in the long run it would sound better I'm sure. I feel that the only pain in the *** part will be the tweaking and tunning..but that I can deal with. With any kind of system there will be tunning. As for putting in a 3 way component system...what kind of amp would I get for that....a 4 channel sure but.....would I wire the tweeter with the midrange together and then wire the mid bass by istelf to a channel? Also...I don't think I'd be able to put a 7 a 4 and a 1 inch tweeter all together in my door. Not enough room and i don't want to fabricate any kind of crazy kick panels. Want to keep the look stock for security reasons and "of ease" reasons. The only way I can see it working is if I take off my 6x9 speaker...then...use some MDF to make a converter...and maybe squeez in a 7 and a 4 together side by side...then put the tweeter where the other stock tweeter in the door above the arm rest and be done with it.

Doesn't sound to me like 3way frontstage is in your best interest...A properly tuned 2 way active front yields nice resultS- in which a DRZ9255 will not be used to its potential and you can achieve BETTER tuning of those front speakers using another much more affordable deck- like i mentioned before the price difference between a a DRZ9255 and say an Eclipse 8series/Pio 860mp/etc...can get you a whole lot finer set of speakers.

Anyways whatever you chose- good luck....at least you can sort out your needs based on the criteria discussed in this thread.

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 02:28 PM
Yea I could always settle for the Eclipse 8455...cheaper...but I'm not really digging all the laser beams and dragons that come out of to the screen. I don't care much for that crap...just want a simple nonflashy looking SQ HU.


Just to set it straight....

I'll probably get the CDT ES62's and go active with it...it would be a tweeter and a mid. Then Could go with a 4 channel amp....but I'd have to find out what the RMS is of the tweeter (which is the TW-25) and the Midrange speaker so I can match a n amp to it. The I could go with the Eclipse or get the Clarion...but if the clarion will be stupid to get at this point becuase I'd be using just a 4 channel amp and a component setup....then I guess I should be looking at the eclipse right?

Beat_Dominator
11-30-2005, 02:30 PM
Get whever you want. If you are going active the x-overs you choose will be one of the most important pieces.

alphakenny1
11-30-2005, 02:32 PM
yes i like i mentioned earlier, running a 3 way frontstage is no cupcake, so just get the eclipse 8455 (awesome deck with great tuning capabilities) and run a 2 way frontstage, tune it correctly and you should have a nice setup.

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 02:34 PM
sounds like a plan...plus I'd save some money at least with the eclipse over the Clarion.

Also...save money and NOT get a 3 piece component setup.

now I would just need to figure out what the individual RMS ratting are for the ES62 series and get a good 4 channel amp.

recommendations?

3.5Max6spd
11-30-2005, 02:42 PM
sounds like a plan...plus I'd save some money at least with the eclipse over the Clarion.

Also...save money and NOT get a 3 piece component setup.

now I would just need to figure out what the individual RMS ratting are for the ES62 series and get a good 4 channel amp.

recommendations?

get a solid 70-100rms x4 and call it a day

3.5Max6spd
11-30-2005, 02:53 PM
[QUOTE=orangeblast]Yea I could always settle for the Eclipse 8455...cheaper...but I'm not really digging all the laser beams and dragons that come out of to the screen. I don't care much for that crap...just want a simple nonflashy looking SQ HU.


Well if you are actually considering that deck, the actual display is quite simple- pics on the website show some downloadable crap, it has a few strolling graphic displays on the deck for you to chose from ...but obviously its only a choice- check it out at a local dealer to see if its for you

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 02:56 PM
oh heh..i just noticed that you have that deck.. the SQ is really good? pretty easy to use? especially given my setup?

3.5Max6spd
11-30-2005, 03:08 PM
oh heh..i just noticed that you have that deck.. the SQ is really good? pretty easy to use? especially given my setup?

Trust me, I would run a DRZ if I felt it was a better sounding deck. I can get them at cost. But there is no such sonic advantage with that deck IMO. And I'd like to think I have pretty good ears.
We've installed a few in Maximas (i drive a max) and they've introduced alternator whine, wheras none existed before. So I kept away from them.Not saying the product is faulty, but others I know on the forums have as well in different cars.

It is a nicely built deck and obvious xovers flexibility is great- but as I run 3way active now, its 5band TOTAL pEQ is severely lacking. 5band total may be acceptible to some, but even for a 2way active i find it not enough. In a 3way active setup the midrange area alone could use 5bands to itself.

By adding a simple external xover to be able to run 3way active front...i still have
more tuning options over a DRZ...well shy of the price and double the bands of PEQ.

GSteg
11-30-2005, 05:32 PM
now I would just need to figure out what the individual RMS ratting are for the ES62 series and get a good 4 channel amp.

recommendations?

100x4 will be enough. Nothing wrong with having headroom. Your tweeters will not be receiving the same amount of power as your mids anyways. In the end, no matter how far off your RMS ratings for the speakers are (which I might add is only thermal, not how much is required), you will be gain level matching. I would not be surprised to see your tweeters receiving only 20w while your mids receive 90w or whatever. :)

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 06:56 PM
hrm....I'm a bit confused.

I was taught that the RMS should always be matched with the proper amp out put.

for example.... the CDT ES620s are 180 RMS. SO I planned on pushing it with an AX600 which does 200x2@4ohms. Of course this is all before we talked about an active setup.

and I emailed CDT to ask them what the individual RMS ratings were for the Mid bass and the tweeter that comes with the ES620 and the guy said that:

"There are hardly any power handling on speakers without a proper xover.
As I don’t know your xover design I can’t tell a figure
It all has to do with good xover design and proper amp gain setting"

and what if I get a 4 channel that only outputs 100x4@4ohms. Wouldn't that mean that the Tweeter will get 100 watts!?! and my mids will only get 100watts? and if the ES620 is rated at 180Watts RMS...wouldn't i be underpowering my speakers by 80 watts?

orangeblast
11-30-2005, 08:37 PM
to make it more clear:

most 4 channel amps I've seen can only do 85x4@4ohms. Now given that...how in the hell would I power my CDT ES620s...at that point my tweeters would be getting 85 watts and my mids 85 watts if I did active.....but the ES620 do 180rms.

flakko
11-30-2005, 09:19 PM
to make it more clear:

most 4 channel amps I've seen can only do 85x4@4ohms. Now given that...how in the hell would I power my CDT ES620s...at that point my tweeters would be getting 85 watts and my mids 85 watts if I did active.....but the ES620 do 180rms.

if you stuck with the usamps AX line... im pretty sure the AX4300 would put out 100+wx4 i mean cmon, its usamps ;)

GSteg
11-30-2005, 09:56 PM
hrm....I'm a bit confused.

I was taught that the RMS should always be matched with the proper amp out put.

You were taught to match, only for headroom or to give you an idea of how much power you have on hand.



and what if I get a 4 channel that only outputs 100x4@4ohms. Wouldn't that mean that the Tweeter will get 100 watts!?! and my mids will only get 100watts? and if the ES620 is rated at 180Watts RMS...wouldn't i be underpowering my speakers by 80 watts?

Just because your tweeters are hooked up to an amp that does a potential 100w does not mean your tweeters will receive that much. An amp rating is a rating that states how much power it does when a single channel is driven, at a specific impedence, at a specific frequency, with a specific input voltage. This is like the peak horsepower rating for cars. There is a whole curve in how much an amp puts out.

The power the speaker gets is frequency dependant (assuming everything else is the same). The higher the frequency, the less power is needed. I will guarentee you that 100w of tweeter will kill your ears, and 100w of subwoofer will be 234235 times more bearable.

The RMS rating of a speaker is merely a rating of how much power the voice coil can take thermally for X amount of time in Y temperature, etc. It's not necessarly the required amount of power you need. You'll always be "underpowering" your speakers unless your volume is at max, the amp is getting the most voltage it can take, and you're at a specific freq where the amp makes its most power. Music is dynamic. You're not going to get 100w from volume 1 through volume 35, otherwise changing the volume knob would be no use because volume increase with power, within the speaker's linear operating range (as in assuming no power compression comes in, or anything like that).

:)

xdavieexx
11-30-2005, 11:17 PM
If you want a set of 3 way 6.3 iridums i have them. And im in Orange county too.. Let me know

alphakenny1
11-30-2005, 11:51 PM
i'm sorry but davie are you gsteg as well?

GSteg
12-01-2005, 12:30 AM
Davie is a buddy of mine :)

alphakenny1
12-01-2005, 12:34 AM
Davie is a buddy of mine :)

lol yea cuz i saw your thread on ECA as well and i'm like hmmm is that gsteg as well? he has two sn's?!?!?!! how come davie and gsteg are logged in at the same time at ca.com?!?!?! lol. makes sense now.

xdavieexx
12-01-2005, 01:42 AM
yup, i dunno how the new ECA works. I try posting up stuff once and they deleted my post... so I dunno wtf? they said i didn't follow new rules or something.

bikejunkie223
12-01-2005, 03:33 AM
My $0.02? Dls stuff kicks major ***. I currently have UP6's and they are awesome, and a couple hundred less than iridiums, and I have the Iridium 10, and it is the best sub I have ever heard, and I am underpowering it- it could handle 1000w if I had it, and it still sounds kick-*** with 250wrms. I am a ***** for dls currently- I love their amps too.

supa_c
12-01-2005, 03:48 AM
CLR
Mixture of CDT mids, DLS xovers and Rainbow tweeters.

supa_c
12-01-2005, 03:53 AM
As I have not heard a set of Rainbows yet I cannot attest to their quality though what I see looks pretty nice.

The DLS tweeters are supposed to be less bright than CDT's and the midrange is fairly close between the two. The HU and amp choice are a good match for either.
Not really....
The DLS tweeters can get harsh. 3khz not EQ'ed can cause some pain to your ears. Even on the -3dB setting they are still loud
The DLS mids ( MS6) are better than the CDT CL's IMO. They look better too

orangeblast
12-01-2005, 04:18 AM
looks like I'm headed in the direction of a set of DLS Iridium 6.3's and an Eclipse CD8455 HU. This is good becuase in the long run I won't have to buy a new amp to power the CDT ES620s I was thinking of getting in the first place. Was reading that the RMS of the Iridiums are 100 wats....and my DEI can do 125x2@4ohms...so that should work out great!!!

What do you guys think?

and also...is stinger wire still the good place to go or are there better wires now-adays?

supa_c
12-01-2005, 04:22 AM
There is better speaker wire
But its $2.20 a foot.
My bro had some 6.3's, the mid didnt have enough power going to it so i didnt like them a whole lot.
Shure did sound sweet active though

orangeblast
12-01-2005, 04:35 AM
I think what I'll do is work my way to an active setup...but for now do passive.
and with my 125x2 I should be able to get alot of juice to the mid.

only question is...how I'm going to mount a 3 way set into my door.....

the stock speaker is a 6x9...so I should have a nice big hole to work with. Could use some MDF board and make an adapter to fit the 6 1/2 and the 3 inch mid...and hopefully squeeze in the tweeter. But...I would really like to some how angle the tweeter and the 3 inch mid up towards the dome light...don't know how I do that.

xdavieexx
12-01-2005, 04:43 AM
CLR
Mixture of CDT mids, DLS xovers and Rainbow tweeters.
not good to mix sets together, unless you are going active. Never use passive crossovers for another set thats not ment for it.

supa_c
12-01-2005, 04:43 AM
Fiberglass is the only way.
just remember your gonna need 2-3 amps for active since they are 3 ways

xdavieexx
12-01-2005, 04:44 AM
Not really....
The DLS tweeters can get harsh. 3khz not EQ'ed can cause some pain to your ears. Even on the -3dB setting they are still loud
The DLS mids ( MS6) are better than the CDT CL's IMO. They look better too
Iridium sets are a lot smoother and warmer sounding. PLus it all depends how you eq the set.

supa_c
12-01-2005, 04:44 AM
not good to mix sets together, unless you are going active. Never use passive crossovers for another set thats not ment for it.
( it was a joke)

supa_c
12-01-2005, 04:45 AM
Iridium sets are a lot smoother and warmer sounding. PLus it all depends how you eq the set. They all use the same general tweeter.

xdavieexx
12-01-2005, 04:45 AM
I think what I'll do is work my way to an active setup...but for now do passive.
and with my 125x2 I should be able to get alot of juice to the mid.

only question is...how I'm going to mount a 3 way set into my door.....

the stock speaker is a 6x9...so I should have a nice big hole to work with. Could use some MDF board and make an adapter to fit the 6 1/2 and the 3 inch mid...and hopefully squeeze in the tweeter. But...I would really like to some how angle the tweeter and the 3 inch mid up towards the dome light...don't know how I do that.
Use that amp now for passive. When you go 3 way, buy another 4 channel amp. Because the tweeter and the MIdbass go on the same amp. You would use the 2 channel for the midrange. The 8455 is an awesome choice. I have the same deck by the way.

orangeblast
12-01-2005, 04:51 AM
Hey talk to me about your eclipse CD8455. How do you like it...and how are the features on it. I found the chromish look kind of tacky an the idea of all the stupid Pioneer like graphics on the screen. But how is the SQ and feature list. Do you really feel protected with the whole ESN secuirty stuff? How much of a difference can I expect by going to the eclipse from my current Clarion HX-D10.

thanks!

supa_c
12-01-2005, 04:56 AM
One good think about the Eclipse's is that they arent as recognizable as something from pioneer or alpine.
My mom has a JVC KD-sh55 in her car and she doesnt even thing twice about removing the faceplate even though the H/U cost $400.
Its just not very distinct.
Most theives will prob do a quick glance, see its not something "popular" and keep walking.

xdavieexx
12-01-2005, 05:03 AM
Hey talk to me about your eclipse CD8455. How do you like it...and how are the features on it. I found the chromish look kind of tacky an the idea of all the stupid Pioneer like graphics on the screen. But how is the SQ and feature list. Do you really feel protected with the whole ESN secuirty stuff? How much of a difference can I expect by going to the eclipse from my current Clarion HX-D10.

thanks!
eclipse 8455 i don't think look tacky at all. At night it really looks great. ESN works great. At the shop whenever they disconnect my battery, i have to punch in the code everytime or else the HU won't work. And eclipse has a 1 year replacement if it ever gets stolen so thats another great thing. SQ is amazin i went from my really nice pioneer p900r that costed like 600 buck in the days with 6 volt preouts and 13 band graphic eq. And i noticed a lot of different, less noise, less distortion because the gain on the amp is turned down lower. Mp3 feature is really nice. You can't go wrong with eclipse thats for sure.

bikejunkie223
12-01-2005, 10:38 AM
I'm switchin my 860 out for an 8454 this weekend, should be a nice upgrade.I'll post the differences IMO. Also, a removable face is kinda retarded IMO. Most people don't remove them, and if they do, they just put it in the glove box or the center console, so how much security is that?

3.5Max6spd
12-01-2005, 11:01 AM
They all use the same general tweeter.

Actually the Iridium and Ultimate tweeters are different...now the lower line MS6 and UP6 use the same tweeter...

djdilliodon
12-02-2005, 01:28 AM
For the es's 100x4 or as low as 60x4 active is more than enough for them. The reason why youll start seeing the es's fall in price is cause the tw25s tweeters are no longer made and the mids are going to be improved for the new year, so cdt is pawning them off on dealers super cheap to make room for the new design coming. The mids will still be yellow but from the front they will look totally different and some other changes will be made as well. The vifa mg uses the exact same frame as the es driver maybe even same cone material but are they the same no. The ts parameters for both drivers are totally different.

supa_c
12-02-2005, 02:18 AM
Actually the Iridium and Ultimate tweeters are different...now the lower line MS6 and UP6 use the same tweeter...
I know ;)

bikejunkie223
12-03-2005, 12:02 PM
Actually the Iridium and Ultimate tweeters are different...now the lower line MS6 and UP6 use the same tweeter...
That is a new tweeter for the iridium, they used the UP1C tweeter (same as up6's) until recently- as I was not aware they made a change until now.

stevcha
12-08-2005, 10:10 PM
looks like I'm headed in the direction of a set of DLS Iridium 6.3's and an Eclipse CD8455 HU. This is good becuase in the long run I won't have to buy a new amp to power the CDT ES620s I was thinking of getting in the first place. Was reading that the RMS of the Iridiums are 100 wats....and my DEI can do 125x2@4ohms...so that should work out great!!!

What do you guys think?

and also...is stinger wire still the good place to go or are there better wires now-adays?

You'll love the DLS 6.3s!! I just made the change to 3way and love it. I'm running my 6.3s passive for now and using a 8455. I think the 8455 is a great deck. It gives you quite a bit of control and the features are useful. I'm not crazy about the movie displays so I just don't use them. I'm using an Arc 4150 bridged to power the 6.3s. The Arc 4150 per specs puts out 320x2 @ 4ohm. The Iridiums have taken everything I've thrown at them. You won't have any problem with 125x2. Good luck!!