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PV Audio
10-27-2005, 06:05 PM
what might these be for? :)

http://img344.imageshack.us/img344/3969/PICT0620.jpg

http://img344.imageshack.us/img344/2328/PICT0622.jpg

by using no screws (thus no filler), you can guess that i'm doing a raw finish with danish oil. the wood is too beautiful to paint frankly.

MastaFlex
10-27-2005, 06:06 PM
hmmmm.......

PV Audio
10-27-2005, 06:08 PM
hmmmm indeed :up2somet:

i love the suspense.....

thylantyr
10-27-2005, 06:19 PM
what might these be for?

speaker box ? :smokin:

ballstothewall
10-27-2005, 06:28 PM
raw finish...pssh. I'm plan on finishing mine with automotive primer.

Ought look dang good when your done.

I like the way that grain looks on that plywood too.

PV Audio
10-27-2005, 08:20 PM
what might these be for?

speaker box ? :smokin:
*looks around quizzically* i dunno! i guess we'll just have to wait and see :up2somet:

notice the foot print of the cabinet, not large at all :up2somet:

chris96camaro
10-27-2005, 08:25 PM
how long do we have to wait...i wanna know:mad:

PV Audio
10-27-2005, 08:28 PM
raw finish...pssh. I'm plan on finishing mine with automotive primer.

Ought look dang good when your done.

I like the way that grain looks on that plywood too.
:confused: why would you finish with primer? and yes, the wood is so beautiful. only 5 ply tho.....

ballstothewall
10-27-2005, 08:30 PM
cause primer is cool...duh

Untill i get the time to get my hands on an airbrush and put some flames on it...hehe

Plus the only nice looking wood we have at home is a couple thousand board feet of 1" and 1.5" walnut...hehe

IamDeMan
10-27-2005, 08:35 PM
an array.

DBfan187
10-27-2005, 08:37 PM
I hope you double-baffled that DD box...

PV Audio
10-27-2005, 08:40 PM
:confused: there is no 2x baffle, no really need to. people are running mts with single baffles, so i didn't feel like making it bigger to account for the displacement.

PV Audio
10-27-2005, 08:50 PM
an array.
noipe, FAR from it lol :)

PV Audio
10-27-2005, 08:50 PM
btw, they are 48x4x5 internally

PV Audio
10-27-2005, 11:33 PM
now that i think about it, danish oil migt not be ideal. but i'm not sure. any ideas on stains? birch plywood btw.

ballstothewall
10-27-2005, 11:53 PM
The onlything I have used on baltic birch is tounge oil.

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 12:00 AM
'tis not baltic birch i don't think, but it is birch. baltic birch is $$$$$$$$ and this 4x8 only ran me ~40 bucks. thinkin about maybe a nice mahagony or some type... or maybe just the danish oil

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 12:01 AM
this is my guide, finished with danish oil

http://vikash.info/audio/W3-871S/build.asp

i guess it just isn't rich enough for me, i want something more robust.

Eugenics
10-28-2005, 12:08 AM
wow, if you make it look as good as those do i will be very impressed


/serious

good luck man

azbass
10-28-2005, 12:09 AM
staining is for whimps, i liked that flat black you did on the last box

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 12:12 AM
yeah me too, but i LOVE the look of the wood and only want to enhance it further. its just beautiful.

azbass
10-28-2005, 12:13 AM
werd

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 12:15 AM
somehow, being the idiot i am, i forgot to cut the other two sides, the tops and the rear baffles :slap:

notice i used the titebond 3 on this one, it is darker so JUST IN CASE some of it shows up after sanding, which it shouldn't, it won't be obvious unlike titebond two which would just be yellow and look retarded.

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 12:17 AM
http://img344.imageshack.us/img344/5265/PICT0621.jpg

i meant to post that in the beginning :)

thylantyr
10-28-2005, 12:32 AM
Which stain?

Easy answer: go to the home center or hardware store and they *better* have sample
packets of all the stains to try on scrap wood. One of my favorite colors {polling the audience here}
is Varathane Cabernet... ssshhhh... Very cool looking stain and do two thin coats of
Minwax wipe on polyurethane. I think the wipe on poly is a gimmick as it looks the same
as regular Minwax, perhaps the 'wipe on' is the container convienence, not chemical composition, hence the higher price. Don't use water based polyurethane, those are for
sissy boys.

You can also try the oils too.. Whatever you do, get some wood scraps and do some
stain testing on them.

If you want to hide end grain layers of the plywood, the home centers have rolls of iron on veneer in 3/4" wide strips.
Cool shiznit... Lay it down, iron it on.. done.. Razor blade to trim excess. Looks sweet.

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 12:41 AM
nope, i want the end grain to be exposed, keepin it raw. how much does a chamfer bit usually run btw? gotta route the rear of the baffle WOOWEE! u suggest like ace hardware, or just lowes? i ahve to get some boards but at lowes anyway, so i'll be there in the first place.

thylantyr
10-28-2005, 12:48 AM
I only use the uber router bits, Whiteside brand that I buy from here;
http://routerbits.com/

Mated to a 3 horse VS router. I have no more routing issues :D

There are other good brands but I just don't want to deal with it.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/

For store bought, see if they have Freud brand. The idea behind the router bit
is to have thick carbide tips so they last a long time, otherwise the cheap
steel bits burn easy. Cheap bits may be fine for small projects and they may
dull faster, but so what.. just throw then away...

What is your tool strategy? To gather good stuff to keep it or to use cheaper
stuff disposable fashion? If you DIY alot, suggest buying good shiznit and
taking care of it. But the good stuff eats wood and leaves nice cuts, makes you
look like a better crafter.

If you use plywood or particle board, cheap bits aren't bad. MDF, solid woods
punish bits more.

Carbide tipped for sure.

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 12:52 AM
i STARTED on the cheap route, but then i decided that i should have just gotten good things in the beginning. i'm using an EXCELLENT router now, so i'm not worried about the router, just the good bit. lowes does indeed sell freud, and i have two bosch router bits (gotta go with the router :rolleyes: ) that are great. i got a bigass router pack (like 15 bits) from ebay that surprisingly are very nice for the 20 shipped i paid. the straight bit still works just like the day i bought it, but i need to see if i have a chamfer.

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 12:53 AM
http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1130472632_24971+33

muy bien?

ballstothewall
10-28-2005, 01:18 AM
For the final touch, use a scroll saw and cut out an intricate design out of walnut, make it 1/2" thick, round all edges, and use Tougne Oil, it will make the walnut stand out like night and day, the mellow natural color of the ply, with the deep dark color of the walnut. Dang, I love the look of walnut, (prob why I use it so much with my projects).

*Edit*
Doesen't have to be that intricitue, just don't overdo it, but have something going from almost top to bottom, in about the center 1/3 of it.

thylantyr
10-28-2005, 01:47 AM
http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1130472632_24971+33

muy bien?

Any Whiteside router bit is ranked high. I have their beefy 1.5" roundover
bit {3" wide bit} that has big azz carbide tips and I did a roundover on 1.5" thick
MDF in one pass, it just ate the MDF like butter. This was so cool. Cost me
$125 for that bit though but it did the job without flaw.

pics;
http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/port/

I made custom 6" flared ports, 6" hole, 9" flare, 12" flange. Gonna use one of these
for each 15" woofer I have. The black port is a Precision Port 4" flared for size reference.

In all, I have almost $1000 in Whiteside bits as I've collected them over the years.
Always use common sense when cutting and use a variable speed router if you
have that luxury.

My next big tool purchase --> 12" sliding compound miter saw [$600] ... /ouch
sometimes I want to build something with 4x4 wood and the 10" saw won't cut it in one pass,
too short. You need the 12" blade. Sliding is very cool, you can cut more wood vs. fixed, but it cost
more for a sliding saw.

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 09:18 AM
For the final touch, use a scroll saw and cut out an intricate design out of walnut, make it 1/2" thick, round all edges, and use Tougne Oil, it will make the walnut stand out like night and day, the mellow natural color of the ply, with the deep dark color of the walnut. Dang, I love the look of walnut, (prob why I use it so much with my projects).

*Edit*
Doesen't have to be that intricitue, just don't overdo it, but have something going from almost top to bottom, in about the center 1/3 of it.
what are you talkin about man? what should i make out of walnut?

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 09:21 AM
Any Whiteside router bit is ranked high. I have their beefy 1.5" roundover
bit {3" wide bit} that has big azz carbide tips and I did a roundover on 1.5" thick
MDF in one pass, it just ate the MDF like butter. This was so cool. Cost me
$125 for that bit though but it did the job without flaw.

pics;
http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/port/

I made custom 6" flared ports, 6" hole, 9" flare, 12" flange. Gonna use one of these
for each 15" woofer I have. The black port is a Precision Port 4" flared for size reference.

In all, I have almost $1000 in Whiteside bits as I've collected them over the years.
Always use common sense when cutting and use a variable speed router if you
have that luxury.

My next big tool purchase --> 12" sliding compound miter saw [$600] ... /ouch
sometimes I want to build something with 4x4 wood and the 10" saw won't cut it in one pass,
too short. You need the 12" blade. Sliding is very cool, you can cut more wood vs. fixed, but it cost
more for a sliding saw.
i went into lowes knowing that i am not going to replace this router for as long as i'm home and though college. it aint gonna be a 4 week router. thus, i purchased this.

http://img460.imageshack.us/img460/111/PICT0582.jpg

going to lowes to get the rest of my wood cut (i'm so :emb: but lowes cutting it vs me getting green paint burned into the wood is a tradeoff that i'll take) so i need to pick up the rest of the stuff. i'll check back during per.5 today to see if u responded.

thylantyr
10-28-2005, 11:49 AM
What circular saw blades do you use?

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 02:55 PM
I have a skil blade that is somehow bent (i'm finished with skil after my router incident) and am using a replacement stock blade. it is a hitachi blade and saw, and the blade is painted green.

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 02:56 PM
oh and i found out that i DO indeed have a 45 degree chamfer bit from my router pack. i'll use that for now.

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 03:19 PM
i still require tips on finishing the wood. i got cited by my school's parking lot "guard" for having "potentially dangerous material" in my car. consisted of a 4x3 sheet of the plywood and some screws :D

just goes to show u how stuck up suburban indianapolis is.

thylantyr
10-28-2005, 04:46 PM
Get a better circular saw blade, I have some ideas if you have $$$


suburban indianapolis is.
Blame it on the Colts

ballstothewall
10-28-2005, 05:09 PM
You oughta live in hickvill Kansas...No one cares what you have in your vehicle, guns, knives, tools, its all the norm here, and I like it that way.

And I was talking about cutting a design out of walnut and gluing it onto the side of the box, I didn't specify that as well as I should have. cause Walnut on Oak or whatever type of plywood that is looks frickin cool when you put tonuge oil or polyurthane on it.

ngsm13
10-28-2005, 05:36 PM
pics;
http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/port/

I made custom 6" flared ports, 6" hole, 9" flare, 12" flange. Gonna use one of these
for each 15" woofer I have. The black port is a Precision Port 4" flared for size reference.


Wow. How much for some?

NG

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 05:54 PM
k i went and picked up the minwax polyurethane, and got my pieces cut :emb:

should i stain with the danish oil and then polyurethane?

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 06:15 PM
great so now i have to do community service from 1-5 tomorrow so i'll get next to NO work done on them.

ballstothewall
10-28-2005, 07:14 PM
uhh...5pm to 3am...What else is there to do other than work on the project???

ballstothewall
10-28-2005, 07:16 PM
Oh an be careful with that polyurthane, its easy to get to much on and get runs, its hard to get a perfect finish with it. Yea, put the danish oil on first then the poly...make it nice and shiny. If you want it smooth as glass, you can get some steel wool and some wax and that sucker, it will take some of the shine out of it, but dang it will be smooth!

thylantyr
10-28-2005, 07:47 PM
Polyurethane - Minwax is good because it's 'thinned' as opposed to other brands,
in liquid form it's best used if you wipe it on thin with a lint free rag. One coat,
then do another the next day. You can try more coats depending on what look
you are going for. I found that course woods like oak just look better with less
coats of poly. You gotta try a scrap piece of wood. I prefer to wait a few days
after staining before poly to ensure the stain has dried out. Depends on temperature.

Thick polyurethanes are cool too but too thick and it sorta svcks, those are best
for doing floors where you require a hard/thick finish.

Alot of it is personal taste, no substitute for the experiment.

There is another type called McGloskey 'Gymseal', goes on thick, it's glossy
and it just takes months to harden, but it's pretty cool.. gym floor effect.
Also, the thinner poly's also require months to harden. Curing time is fast,
but hardening time is long especially if it goes on thick.

thylantyr
10-28-2005, 07:49 PM
Wow. How much for some?

NG


Took me along time to make those, many rings had to be routed, aligned,
glued, clamped, then the roundover. I made 2 ports, the one with flange
for the outside of the box and the other port for the other side of the tube
with no flange. I think I made 20 of them total. I will be using 16 of them
for my project, 4 spares.

PV Audio
10-28-2005, 11:02 PM
what are big, soft and supple? my dirty pillows :up2somet:

http://img493.imageshack.us/img493/694/PICT0628.jpg

http://img493.imageshack.us/img493/4296/PICT0624.jpg

here is a tip for anyone considering those router bit packs on ebay. some of them DO have fairly decent bits......this one didn't. i used the chamfer bit on these and......well you can see how it turned out
http://img493.imageshack.us/img493/6522/PICT0623.jpg

back to the goods :)
http://img493.imageshack.us/img493/1150/PICT0626.jpg

http://img493.imageshack.us/img493/6497/PICT0625.jpg

ballstothewall
10-28-2005, 11:29 PM
ohhhh.....nice. Come on, get some noise makers in there man...

I got a question though, what type of plywood is that, and how much is it if you don't mind my asking?

-Ryan

thylantyr
10-29-2005, 12:36 AM
When you used the router to chamfer, did you cut the chamfer in one pass or
do many passes with less depth ?

PV Audio
10-29-2005, 12:50 AM
When you used the router to chamfer, did you cut the chamfer in one pass or
do many passes with less depth ?
i tried to do one pass, the the blade was NOT sharp AT ALL, so i wound up messing it up pretty bad

PV Audio
10-29-2005, 12:51 AM
ohhhh.....nice. Come on, get some noise makers in there man...

I got a question though, what type of plywood is that, and how much is it if you don't mind my asking?

-Ryan
it is birch, 5 ply. it was something like 35 or 45 bucks, not too sure.

PV Audio
10-29-2005, 12:54 AM
ok so i tried the danish oil on my brace before cutting it........oh my god. this was the BIGGEST waste of money EVER. perhaps it is because i got the golden oak type, but it is NOT rich at all, just looks dry as hell. i need a new stain, cause the color looks so much like the regular wood it isn't funny. any suggestions on DEEP stains (mahogany?) ?

while you're thinking about that, a teaser pic (no danish oil on this) :)
http://img462.imageshack.us/img462/9864/pict06291ut.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

swc204
10-29-2005, 02:38 AM
looks good..........thats alot of diet snapple

adio
10-29-2005, 02:40 AM
u are a box buildin ***!!!!!!

jaygeorge1979
10-29-2005, 11:40 AM
What Is It I Must Know!!!

PV Audio
10-29-2005, 12:38 PM
tee hee :up2somet:

Beat_Dominator
10-29-2005, 01:29 PM
Looks like a full range TL..... I'm betting it's going to take more batting in there to get the tune right though :)

PV Audio
10-29-2005, 01:58 PM
you guys will just keep on guessin..........:)

DBfan187
10-29-2005, 03:41 PM
Very nice!


Feel free to spread some of that wealth my way next time.;)

PV Audio
10-29-2005, 06:46 PM
sure thing!


i could have bought lowes by now lol. i go in there EVERY day. just picked up some minwax red mahogany stain, gonna try 'er out.

PV Audio
10-29-2005, 06:50 PM
looks good..........thats alot of diet snapple
lol my mom got the executive gold costco membership and gets those for like 5 less now. it is freakin nuts how many costco items we have. seriously, the laundry detergent we have is enough for all of chicago, and it only cost like 2 bucks a jug lol.

swc204
10-29-2005, 06:56 PM
next time wipe the glue off before it dries......it doesnt absorb stain where theres glue so theres going to be spots there. what drivers are you using?

PV Audio
10-29-2005, 06:59 PM
don't worry, i have technique in the entire project. i have plenty of confidence in it. and in the rare event that the glue DOES show (never has EVER after sanding), it is just as dark as the stain i'm using. the way that i do it is, you let the glue gel over such that it is able to be squeezed lightly without popping. once there, you take a razor knife and cut it off as low as possible. never fails. no one shall know the drivers except I...

swc204
10-29-2005, 07:03 PM
if your going for that natural look maybe just use some vegtable oil and leave the board in the oil over night...........leaves a nice natural finish.......ill take a pic of the cutting board thing i made and then stained it with vegitable oil.........you dont want to sand the plywood to much at all by the way.....it has a thin layer

PV Audio
10-29-2005, 07:10 PM
well i'm going to protrusion sand with 50, low protrusion sand with 80, leveling sand with 120 and smoothing sand with 220. tis what i have seen done and turns out quite beautifully.

swc204
10-29-2005, 07:17 PM
you dont need to use half of those..........just use 120-180 and then 200 grit.....its just plywood....you might need to use your method for hard wood but not plywood......turns out the same in the end

PV Audio
10-29-2005, 07:24 PM
oh no, i didn't clarify. on the non rough sides, i will ONLY do 120 and 220. this plywood was cut quite rough though, so i'll probably add 80 grit on the rough sides. i looked at it closely and 50 grit would be unwise.

swc204
10-29-2005, 07:25 PM
i was woundering what you thinking about using 50 grit on plywood.....sounds good tho

PV Audio
10-29-2005, 07:35 PM
ok i tested mahogany on some scrap, and unless it looks different when it dries, i will need a new stain. it looks TOO dark actually, doesn't accentuate the wood at ALL.

ballstothewall
10-29-2005, 09:35 PM
Have you tried Medium Walnut?

PV Audio
10-29-2005, 10:10 PM
noipe, i think i'll test drive that. i REALLY like the danish oil finish on vikash's tho, maybe i'll ask him.

PV Audio
10-30-2005, 12:45 AM
ok i'm officially grounded until i get the drivers and the SNF parts in. all that i did was some preliminary sanding. i'm going to practice my roundover skills (harder than you think ;) ) on the old DD box before i try it on the delicate plywood.

PV Audio
10-30-2005, 01:08 AM
as of right now i'd already like to give a special thanks to thylantr and ballstothewall, good helpful guys here as well as everyone else who is and ha(i)s help (ed)(ing) me

thylantyr
10-30-2005, 12:29 PM
practice my roundover skills

When using a router many people think you have to do all the cuts in one pass.
If you have trouble, do multiple passes, two or three. Set the depth cut to just a little
bit on the first pass, lower the bit on second or final pass. The router bit is usually happier
to remove less material per pass. Depends on your equipment, you have to figure out
what it likes to get professional cuts.

PV Audio
10-30-2005, 01:07 PM
^^ yeah thats why i'm going to practice on my other box first.

jaygeorge1979
10-31-2005, 03:34 PM
ok so i tried the danish oil on my brace before cutting it........oh my god. this was the BIGGEST waste of money EVER. perhaps it is because i got the golden oak type, but it is NOT rich at all, just looks dry as hell. i need a new stain, cause the color looks so much like the regular wood it isn't funny. any suggestions on DEEP stains (mahogany?) ?

while you're thinking about that, a teaser pic (no danish oil on this) :)
http://img462.imageshack.us/img462/9864/pict06291ut.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


could someone tell me what i am looking at in this picture? i dont get it:banghead:

ballstothewall
10-31-2005, 03:43 PM
Looks to me like the base with one of the legs attached.

ngsm13
10-31-2005, 03:44 PM
Took me along time to make those, many rings had to be routed, aligned,
glued, clamped, then the roundover. I made 2 ports, the one with flange
for the outside of the box and the other port for the other side of the tube
with no flange. I think I made 20 of them total. I will be using 16 of them
for my project, 4 spares.

Still...if you could put a price on 2...

NG

PV Audio
10-31-2005, 05:01 PM
could someone tell me what i am looking at in this picture? i dont get it:banghead:
the spike :up2somet:

ballstothewall
10-31-2005, 05:36 PM
Where did you get them...that looks pretty dang cool!

PV Audio
10-31-2005, 05:52 PM
whoa! vikash is readin this thread! didn't know he was a member...******!

PV Audio
10-31-2005, 05:56 PM
Where did you get them...that looks pretty dang cool!
parts express. they are the dayton b-stock, somethin like 10 bucks less than normal.

ballstothewall
10-31-2005, 05:58 PM
sweet...Thanks

Vikash
10-31-2005, 06:07 PM
whoa! vikash is readin this thread! didn't know he was a member...******!
;)

and in the spirit of it being a caraudio forum, here's my install: http://www.vikash.info/fto/gallery

PV Audio
10-31-2005, 06:08 PM
tight stuff, we need all the knowledge we can get lol :)

PV Audio
10-31-2005, 06:11 PM
since you are here, i might as well ask you. how did you figure out the SNF values for ur project? (i posted this at diy but i didn't get what i was lookin for)

Vikash
10-31-2005, 06:24 PM
My implementation was based on the same enclosure volume and baffle width as John Krutke's original design, so the notch was the same.

PV Audio
10-31-2005, 06:25 PM
My implementation was based on the same enclosure volume and baffle width as John Krutke's original design, so the notch was the same.
Link perchance?

:)

Vikash
10-31-2005, 06:30 PM
He is the master. Check out his more recent work too.

http://www.zaphaudio.com/archives.html

PV Audio
10-31-2005, 06:42 PM
thanks, i owe u one (50+ lol)

thylantyr
10-31-2005, 06:45 PM
No more dangling the worm.. What is this project and what drivers you be using?
Crossover? ....... /heh ////

PV Audio
10-31-2005, 07:01 PM
thylantyr, even you must wait :)

Vikash knows though, and i hope he won't spill los beans.

thylantyr
10-31-2005, 07:06 PM
Hey, check this out. I have a great idea for your project.

PV Audio
10-31-2005, 07:28 PM
...check what lol

PV Audio
10-31-2005, 10:40 PM
i find it funny that only one person on here knows the cones, and he just joined today lol.

ballstothewall
11-01-2005, 12:36 AM
Be sure to post what type of finish you put on that birch ply. I am really curious to see what you end up using, and how it looks. Myself, I almost always put only tounge oil/polyurthane on birch ply, but It will be interesting to see what it turns out like!

thylantyr
11-01-2005, 03:58 AM
...check what lol


....., even you must wait :) :veryhapp: :laugh:

thylantyr
11-01-2005, 04:00 AM
i find it funny that only one person on here knows the cones, and he just joined today lol.

I believe you post the driver on another thread ;)

... are you high passing the driver or running it full range ?

... are you using the 'filter' design to fix a response problem ?

... can you just run it full range as is ?

PV Audio
11-01-2005, 02:06 PM
I believe you post the driver on another thread ;)

... are you high passing the driver or running it full range ?

... are you using the 'filter' design to fix a response problem ?

... can you just run it full range as is ?
i can't decide if i want to run it as a virgin or pop its cherry with a SNF. not sure yet.

PV Audio
11-01-2005, 02:06 PM
....., even you must wait :) :veryhapp: :laugh:
:emb:

PV Audio
11-01-2005, 02:06 PM
Be sure to post what type of finish you put on that birch ply. I am really curious to see what you end up using, and how it looks. Myself, I almost always put only tounge oil/polyurthane on birch ply, but It will be interesting to see what it turns out like!
what color is tung oil? is it rich and deep?

swc204
11-01-2005, 02:06 PM
im sorry lemans

PV Audio
11-01-2005, 02:14 PM
Edit That!!

swc204
11-01-2005, 02:17 PM
Edit That!!
edit what? :D

Vikash
11-01-2005, 02:21 PM
You'll need the notch. I tried to fight it for a while, but gave in in the end.

PV Audio
11-01-2005, 02:22 PM
alright i'll just use the values off ur site :)

and thanks ess dub see :)

swc204
11-01-2005, 02:23 PM
alright i'll just use the values off ur site :)

and thanks ess dub see :)

that took me a while to decipher

ballstothewall
11-01-2005, 05:23 PM
Tounge oil is clear and brings out the natural color, if I had to say anything, it is kinda yellowish. I will get pics of some of the tounge oil stuff that I have at home when I go this weekend for ya.

mattmcss
11-01-2005, 07:08 PM
if you want it clear try some polyurethane, some water based will keep it clear and wont turn yellow as quickly

if you need any help on finishing wood give me a should i work at an unfinished furniture store and have experience finishing.

ballstothewall
11-01-2005, 07:17 PM
eh...I'm not to big of a fan of poly, to hard to get a perfect finish, IMHO.

mattmcss
11-01-2005, 07:18 PM
nah, using oil based and letting it sit and smooth itself out you're going to be fiine

PV Audio
11-01-2005, 08:57 PM
well i dont want a clear finish, i want something natural, but deep...

Eugenics
11-01-2005, 10:56 PM
motor oil

PV Audio
11-02-2005, 05:01 PM
FVCK, i emailed mr. reimer at creativesound and it is going to take another week to get here (2 weeks total) :mad:


but the wait makes it all the more worthwhile.

PV Audio
11-07-2005, 05:34 PM
*licks lips* 10 watt non inductive 7 ohm resistors: check
too expensive dayton binding posts: check
jantzen 20 gauge 70 Mh inductors: check
dayton poly film mind u .33 uF capacitors: check

:) :D

swc204
11-07-2005, 05:35 PM
got any more pics?

PV Audio
11-07-2005, 05:45 PM
yeah nope

:)

Eugenics
11-07-2005, 06:30 PM
i want pictures god****it

PV Audio
11-07-2005, 07:49 PM
relax, i shall satisfy you tonight :)


(you knwo what i meant :) )

PV Audio
11-07-2005, 08:11 PM
for those of you who doubt that wet sanding does anything, i'm here to tell you that you will be amazed. i practiced the danish oil on a piece of brace sanding 220 to 320 to (wet sanding here on up) 400 to 600 to 800 to 1500 to 2000 then 0000 steelwool for a nice smooth as glass finish.

PV Audio
11-07-2005, 08:43 PM
****

i ordered .33 uF caps and 70 mh inductors, i needed 3.3 uF caps and .7 mH inductors! and when i just reordered, they went to the PO Box instead of the house addy (i sent them an email and hopefully it will be ok.

PV Audio
11-07-2005, 10:25 PM
more pics for you guys along with tips:

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/7504/PICT0635.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/7866/PICT0636.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5292/PICT0632.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/9620/PICT0633.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/955/PICT0634.jpg

alright that's my smooth as glass wet sanded piece for finish comparisons. now: as you can see, i sanded too low (going from mdf to plywood, to mdf for ever back to plywood has its consequences) on the plywood. however, once the oil is applied, i'm fairly certain that it won't look AS bad. at least we can hope.... as i said i ordered the WRONG parts for the notch filter, so i re ordered them and hopefully these will be finished by the weekend (not finshed like "stain" finished, but done with construction). they are turning out fair, not excellent, but fair. there is also a downside to useing panels longer than the clams you buy...

-dave

swc204
11-07-2005, 10:32 PM
thats a very big enclosure for what seems to be a very small driver

PV Audio
11-07-2005, 10:33 PM
thats a very big enclosure for what seems to be a very small driver
not large at all my friend :)

4x5x48 = 960

960/1728 = .55 cubic feet before bracing and driver, which works out to a good .48 cubic feet in the end :)

ballstothewall
11-08-2005, 12:33 AM
Wax + Steel wool + elbow grease = smooth as a baby's ***.
Works darn good on places that slide....especially small draws, slides better than any ball bearing slide.

Its good to see that you have your finish figured out!

Eugenics
11-08-2005, 12:48 AM
is it suppose to be slightly off center?

PV Audio
11-08-2005, 08:18 AM
is it suppose to be slightly off center?
"-" 'ly off center :)

you'll see why :)

PV Audio
11-08-2005, 12:15 PM
i'm hoping to get the components soldered and everything ready for sanding by this weekend (hopefully PE doesn't screw up my order, even though it was my fault).

PV Audio
11-08-2005, 05:41 PM
got the drivers in, and my fears were realized. when i cut the flush area, i realized that i had snapped my good bit, so i had to use an ebay bit. looking at the width (numerically) it seemed ok, but after i cut it i realized that it did infact look a wee bit large. so upon further measurements, i found that the "width" of ithe bit was WITHOUT accounting for the actual blades themselves (a few mm). so when i put the driver in, theres about a good mm all around it. oh well, learning experience number two: don't by cheap router blades :)

btw, they are the sexiest cones i've ever seen ;)

InhumanAcura
11-08-2005, 05:45 PM
teh pics?

PV Audio
11-08-2005, 05:47 PM
yeah resizing atm

PV Audio
11-08-2005, 05:51 PM
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/9429/PICT0637.jpg
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/8986/PICT0638.jpg

pictures don't do them justice, they are pure audio *** in person

Eugenics
11-08-2005, 05:59 PM
wait a second... your hand... its black... OH MY GOD GUYZ LEMANS IS BLACK!!!!

thylantyr
11-08-2005, 06:00 PM
oh well, learning experience number two: don't by cheap router blades

Should read;


oh well, learning experience number two: don't cut holes unless;

1. You have the speakers in your hand and measured them.

2. Cut the hole on a scrap piece of wood using a router to verify if your
jig is setup properly.


Even cheap router blades [<- bits?] can make accurate holes with the proper jig :)

PV Audio
11-08-2005, 06:06 PM
oh well, learning experience number two: don't by cheap router blades

Should read;


oh well, learning experience number two: don't cut holes unless;

1. You have the speakers in your hand and measured them.

2. Cut the hole on a scrap piece of wood using a router to verify if your
jig is setup properly.


Even cheap router blades [<- bits?] can make accurate holes with the proper jig :)
true :)

however, this is the first time out of many this has happened :)

PV Audio
11-08-2005, 06:07 PM
wait a second... your hand... its black... OH MY GOD GUYZ LEMANS IS BLACK!!!!
:slap: i stole them from the real lemans :D

Eugenics
11-08-2005, 06:07 PM
phew!

InhumanAcura
11-08-2005, 06:14 PM
you have a link to those speakers :)

vosschs
11-08-2005, 06:25 PM
more pics for you guys along with tips:

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/7504/PICT0635.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/7866/PICT0636.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5292/PICT0632.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/9620/PICT0633.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/955/PICT0634.jpg

alright that's my smooth as glass wet sanded piece for finish comparisons. now: as you can see, i sanded too low (going from mdf to plywood, to mdf for ever back to plywood has its consequences) on the plywood. however, once the oil is applied, i'm fairly certain that it won't look AS bad. at least we can hope.... as i said i ordered the WRONG parts for the notch filter, so i re ordered them and hopefully these will be finished by the weekend (not finshed like "stain" finished, but done with construction). they are turning out fair, not excellent, but fair. there is also a downside to useing panels longer than the clams you buy...

-dave
tooo late to tell you not to sand to much on the plywood, you burnt through :crap:

PV Audio
11-08-2005, 10:02 PM
you have a link to those speakers :)
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-813

PV Audio
11-08-2005, 10:03 PM
tooo late to tell you not to sand to much on the plywood, you burnt through :crap:
:( yeah

ballstothewall
11-08-2005, 11:09 PM
Ha! I guessed right, those ARE tangband drivers....WooT!

I'm just happy that I got the guess right....**** now I got to study for my history test tommorow morn, ****.

InhumanAcura
11-08-2005, 11:16 PM
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-813

t/y :)

PV Audio
11-08-2005, 11:21 PM
no prob

PV Audio
11-13-2005, 07:05 PM
holy mother of jesus, if God himself could make a driver, it'd be this. i finished them up today (rushed the last panels cause they were looking ****** anyway, but they look aight with the danish on 'em) and my neighbor (one with the avalance) came over to listen to them and i had sheets on the new TB towers and my dad's some odd polks that he got for demo (like 2k each....). so i throw on some michael brecker, and they disappear into nothing. the sweetness of the sax with the keyboard = heaven. you can feel the bassist's fingers sliding down the strings as though you were doing it yourself. the keyboard is just in front of you and you don't even realize it is coming from a three inch cone. so i'm auditioning them to him and he picked the better speaker to be the TBs every time, 10 different tracks (ray charles, diana krall, brecker, herbie hancock, gary burton, chick corea, ellis marsalis, miles davis, terence blanchard and joshua redman). easily the best speaker that I have built, let alone heard. the 4k polks don't even compare to this little cone. the timbre is off the charts, tonality is soaring that the detail is magnificent. TB: keep making excellent drivers. so now that i'm finsihed (pics in t minus one hour), i'd like to thank john krutke for the design, vikash for being alive :D, balls to the wall, thylantyr and some of them other guys that actually know some **** and don't go spewing off at the mouth like me :D

-Dave

thylantyr
11-13-2005, 10:36 PM
Not that store bought speakers are bad, they just don't give you the bang for buck that
DIY gives you. DIY rules if you be patient to learn the art, collect the tools and do experiments.
Some folks complicated loudspeaker design where there is easy paths, sometimes the easy
paths may be easy but maybe not easy dollar-wise, but definately better than store bought.

No loudspeaker audition is complete until you play some 'Slayer' on it. /hehehehe

swc204
11-13-2005, 10:40 PM
im to lazy to go back thru the thread but did you ever post the box specs?

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 12:09 AM
I want to see some pics man...


Glad to hear that they are all that you wanted +some.

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 12:37 AM
I want to see some pics man...


Glad to hear that they are all that you wanted +some.
true, depending on the perspective. since you fools have been so nice, i'll go take the pics right now :)

Eugenics
11-14-2005, 12:41 AM
finish the **** speakers

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 12:45 AM
as usual, lemans' project progress from start to finish in pictures :) :

http://img344.imageshack.us/img344/2328/PICT0622.jpg

http://img493.imageshack.us/img493/6497/PICT0625.jpg

http://img493.imageshack.us/img493/4296/PICT0624.jpg

http://img462.imageshack.us/img462/9864/pict06291ut.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5292/PICT0632.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/7504/PICT0635.jpg

and in their completed form....

http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/6056/pict06404gu.jpg


:)

-Dave

Eugenics
11-14-2005, 12:49 AM
wha! you *****! round the edges like the ones you showed us

up close pics please

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 12:52 AM
wha! you *****! round the edges like the ones you showed us

up close pics please
no roundover, i like them fine as they are :)

this is also to say that they aren't as good (construction i mean) as i had hoped, so any more detailing would be a waste of time, as there is a risk that i could make them work. the wood is of fair quality anyway (i didn't get the good stuff, got the cheaper blend), so i'm pretty satisfied with them as they are now. close up? which part (rear on one of them looks REALLLY ****** cause the douche that cut the panels (which is partially my fault) cut them oblong.

Eugenics
11-14-2005, 12:56 AM
from the corner or something, anyway nice work, can't wait to see whats next

azbass
11-14-2005, 12:57 AM
i like them, build me some.

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 12:57 AM
:)

azbass
11-14-2005, 12:59 AM
but id need them the size of the ones linked.

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 01:01 AM
u mean like true bookshelfs?

azbass
11-14-2005, 01:02 AM
yes

Eugenics
11-14-2005, 01:04 AM
but there is one catch, and thats that they have to be made from recycled paper

azbass
11-14-2005, 01:05 AM
i wanted papermache'

azbass
11-14-2005, 01:05 AM
but really.

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 01:33 AM
:yumyum: They look good man. :yumyum:

If I had to change something in the construction heres what I would do.

I would make it so when you look at the front, you dn't see any end grain. You might like the endgrain at the sides, idk, but something i would definetly do next time is sink that top down so you don't see any endgrain from the top board. just recess it in there. My .02$ on that matter....

Now comes a question.
Could we get a break down of cost in these projects, a synopsis of what you would do different, and the plans? I am pretty **** tempted to make some of these, since my line array situation isn't looking to healthy right now. :crap:

*edit* My reasoning on the top board being set in there is to me it looks like you forgot to put it on and you went oh ****, I forgot a top and glued one on there.... Although I know that isn't what you did.

Eugenics
11-14-2005, 01:42 AM
i would also sink the top UNLESS YOUR GOING TO SMOOTH IT

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 01:47 AM
Round Over
Round Over
Round Over

The round over router bit is your friend,
Embrace the power of the router.

Eugenics
11-14-2005, 01:48 AM
we've been over that already


p.s. what part of kansas do you live in?

p.p.s. topeka *****

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 01:48 AM
[off topic]

What is that setup hooked up to your computer?

[/offtopic]

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 01:49 AM
I'm at K-State, I love it here. Originally from Clifton (small town, ~30 miles east of Concordia)

*edit* I've never really liked topeka either.... Although thankfully I don't have to live there.

vosschs
11-14-2005, 01:53 AM
dang those burnthrough's ****,:( also looks like ya didnt sand the glue all the way off, o well i may not be much better ;)

Eugenics
11-14-2005, 01:56 AM
I'm at K-State, I love it here. Originally from Clifton (small town, ~30 miles east of Concordia)

*edit* I've never really liked topeka either.... Although thankfully I don't have to live there.



im at ft.hays right now



i love kstate and KU women... fun nights, i probably owe some of them dinner or something

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 11:19 AM
dang those burnthrough's ****,:( also looks like ya didnt sand the glue all the way off, o well i may not be much better ;)
yeah i said fock it, not worth burning off the rest. i learned my plywood lesson tho boieee :)

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 11:20 AM
[off topic]

What is that setup hooked up to your computer?

[/offtopic]
1977 hitachi receiver connected to diy bookshelves with dayton 5 1/4" aluminum cone woofers and a dayton 3/4" neo tweeer.

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 11:25 AM
:yumyum: They look good man. :yumyum:

If I had to change something in the construction heres what I would do.

I would make it so when you look at the front, you dn't see any end grain. You might like the endgrain at the sides, idk, but something i would definetly do next time is sink that top down so you don't see any endgrain from the top board. just recess it in there. My .02$ on that matter....

Now comes a question.
Could we get a break down of cost in these projects, a synopsis of what you would do different, and the plans? I am pretty **** tempted to make some of these, since my line array situation isn't looking to healthy right now. :crap:

*edit* My reasoning on the top board being set in there is to me it looks like you forgot to put it on and you went oh ****, I forgot a top and glued one on there.... Although I know that isn't what you did.
:shrug: i personally like the raw aesthetic look, but personal taste isn't what sells :)

break down in cost for this one? well lemme see:

2 tb w871s drivers - 18 each
birch plywood - 40 for 4x8
SNF - 10 a side
Dayton feet - 10 a side (b stock)
dayton binding posts - 5 a side
danish oil - 8 dollars :crap: from wood + (local place)

total cost-------------------136 dollars give or take

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 11:46 AM
Can you explain to me the reasoing for the SNF (Source Noise Filter?)

And what you think of the setup on your computer, a quick review.

Thanks

-Ryan

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 12:19 PM
Can you explain to me the reasoing for the SNF (Source Noise Filter?)

And what you think of the setup on your computer, a quick review.

Thanks

-Ryan
snf = series notch filter :)

it takes out the tiring high end of the cone essentially.

the computer speakers are VERY transparent (obviously not in this setup ;) ) but the amplifier is gods gift to sin. its terrible.

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 12:32 PM
Ahh ok...Thanks

I am thinking about making this project (the tangband one...) to replace the tv's speakers at home, Mom keeps *****ing about the sound, so maybe she would like these.

swc204
11-14-2005, 04:57 PM
im to lazy to go back thru the thread but did you ever post the box specs?

lemans?

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 05:53 PM
lemans?
ooh sorry :)

they are nothing special, 4x5x48 cabinets, that equals out to around half a cubic foot after driver and bracing displacement :)

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 05:59 PM
Ahh ok...Thanks

I am thinking about making this project (the tangband one...) to replace the tv's speakers at home, Mom keeps *****ing about the sound, so maybe she would like these.
indeed, they are so clean it's nuts

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 06:29 PM
ooh sorry :)

they are nothing special, 4x5x48 cabinets, that equals out to around half a cubic foot after driver and bracing displacement :)


Is this the interior dimensions or the exterior? And it is just loosely stuffed polyfill in the cabinet the full length?

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 06:44 PM
Is this the interior dimensions or the exterior? And it is just loosely stuffed polyfill in the cabinet the full length?
interior dimensions, .75" plywood. it is loosely stuffed with poly synthetic fiber filling material :)

^^ this angers me because u go into audiophile stores and they have that **** on the bag for like 30 dollars. you go into walmart or target and go into the bedding section, pick up a king size pillow for 4.99 for 2x the amount and it says poly fiberfill right on the pillow. i only use pillow stuffing.

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 06:47 PM
Watch the sales at Hobby Lobby, you can get it for even cheaper...hehe. Thanks, I think I will make these things over thanksgiving break possibly.

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 06:51 PM
Watch the sales at Hobby Lobby, you can get it for even cheaper...hehe. Thanks, I think I will make these things over thanksgiving break possibly.
ur gonna need more than 5 days :)

swc204
11-14-2005, 06:52 PM
ur gonna need more than 5 days :)
no....it doesnt look very hard at all....if you have the tools and a router it will only take a few hours

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 06:55 PM
Watch the sales at Hobby Lobby, you can get it for even cheaper...hehe. Thanks, I think I will make these things over thanksgiving break possibly.
a king size pillow is like 3x the polyfill on pe for 20 bucks a pop :)

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 06:55 PM
no....it doesnt look very hard at all....if you have the tools and a router it will only take a few hours
i hope you're joking :eyebrow:

swc204
11-14-2005, 06:57 PM
i hope you're joking :eyebrow:
its just a sealed box right? other than staining and waiting a few hours for the glue to dry it shouldnt take long at all

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 07:01 PM
its just a sealed box right? other than staining and waiting a few hours for the glue to dry it shouldnt take long at all
try it then :)

i don't know of any speaker project that takes a few days. most a few months, some simpler ones, a few weeks (such as this). i take it you have never made a loudspeaker (much different than sub boxes)?

for example, moe's project (reknowned sub box builder mind u) hasn't taken just a few days ;)

thylantyr
11-14-2005, 07:12 PM
interior dimensions, .75" plywood. it is loosely stuffed with poly synthetic fiber filling material :)

^^ this angers me because u go into audiophile stores and they have that **** on the bag for like 30 dollars. you go into walmart or target and go into the bedding section, pick up a king size pillow for 4.99 for 2x the amount and it says poly fiberfill right on the pillow. i only use pillow stuffing.

Acousta-Stuf is esoteric polyfil for $40 for a 5 pound bag {or $10 for 1 pound}, [partsexpress]
it is different than Walmart polyfil which costs a few bucks a bag used in pillow
stuffing {you don't have to buy pillows to get it, it comes in bags}.

Acousta-Stuf is denser than ordinary polyfil and it would work better but
I wouldn't use it in low budget designs where the stuffing cost more than
drivers :crazy: .. but if you have a higher budget project, get the good stuff.

swc204
11-14-2005, 07:15 PM
try it then :)

i don't know of any speaker project that takes a few days. most a few months, some simpler ones, a few weeks (such as this). i take it you have never made a loudspeaker (much different than sub boxes)?

for example, moe's project (reknowned sub box builder mind u) hasn't taken just a few days ;)

Its just a simple sealed box it shoudnt take more then a few days at the max if you work slow....ive made a ton of furniture and much harder things in a fews days before. Just tell me what should take so long about it? 30 minutes max to cut it and then a few more for the speaker hole. glue it all up...you just glued one side and then clamped it, you could have glue everyting except the bottom and clamp them and saved alot of time. Trust me ive been in a woodshop a few times :). How are they alot different than sub boxes?

looks good tho except alittle to much sanding

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 07:17 PM
Its just a simple sealed box it shoudnt take more then a few days at the max if you work slow....ive made a ton of furniture and much harder things in a fews days before. Just tell me what should take so long about it? 30 minutes max to cut it and then a few more for the speaker hole. glue it all up...you just glued one side and then clamped it, you could have glue everyting except the bottom and clamp them and saved alot of time. Trust me ive been in a woodshop a few times :). How are they alot different than sub boxes?

looks good tho except alittle to much sanding
i need not explain w hy they are different, you can see for yourself:

www.diyaudio.com

look around there, find someone that has made a speaker in a few hours (people on here can unfortunatlye hastily make a sub box in that amount of time)

swc204
11-14-2005, 07:24 PM
other than staining and maybe rounding corners and edges its not much different...some of the projects get pretty complicated like horns and such but thats different than a simple sealed box

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 07:32 PM
other than staining and maybe rounding corners and edges its not much different...some of the projects get pretty complicated like horns and such but thats different than a simple sealed box
ok then. i'll bet you 20 dollars paypal that you can't have a presentable loudspeaker (this one) from plywood in 3 days. up for it?

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 07:33 PM
Depending on how much the ole man wants me to work from next wednseday till the following monday, I bet I can get them done, I bet I can get the construction done by the time break is over, I plan on making it out of walnut... I'm positive my grandpa would sell me some, we only got a few thousand board feet lying around in 1" pieces. I might not have the drivers in time, but I bet I can get the cabinets done.

All it is is a long box with a hole at one end, wire running up to it, and a base... With a bunch of stuffing.
Right??

-Ryan

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 07:34 PM
Holy ****.....20 bucks says I can't get this project done in 3 days?

*edit* or does that just extend to swc204?

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 07:35 PM
Depending on how much the ole man wants me to work from next wednseday till the following monday, I bet I can get them done, I bet I can get the construction done by the time break is over, I plan on making it out of walnut... I'm positive my grandpa would sell me some, we only got a few thousand board feet lying around in 1" pieces. I might not have the drivers in time, but I bet I can get the cabinets done.

All it is is a long box with a hole at one end, wire running up to it, and a base... With a bunch of stuffing.
Right??

-Ryan
i dunno, ask swc. he seems to be the expert :)

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 07:41 PM
Alright, I will get this thing done over thanksgiving if i start it. It will happen, (provided I start....lol) The construction will get done, the finish, I'm not to sure i cound do that since our wood shop isn't heated.

swc204
11-14-2005, 07:47 PM
ok then. i'll bet you 20 dollars paypal that you can't have a presentable loudspeaker (this one) from plywood in 3 days. up for it?
i dont have the drivers, the wood.....i could do it i just dont have a need for a box and no speakers.

swc204
11-14-2005, 07:47 PM
i dunno, ask swc. he seems to be the expert :)
easy lemans. i was just saying it shouldnt take a week to do that project

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 07:48 PM
Alright, I will get this thing done over thanksgiving if i start it. It will happen, (provided I start....lol) The construction will get done, the finish, I'm not to sure i cound do that since our wood shop isn't heated.
oh i have faith that you can have the enclosures at least partially completed in 3 days, but unless you have telekinetic shipping and the hands of atlas as clamps, its gonna be hard to get the parts in within 3 days and be able to clamp down the panels. let alone you need a good 6-8 hours + sanding for each of the 3-4 coats of the oil.

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 07:52 PM
HOly hours of sanding Batman.... Don't you use power tools? Sanding dosen't take that long to get a smoooooth finish. The only thing that I would need shipped is the drivers form partsexpress. The rest we have at home or I could pick up from my former wood shop teacher.

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 07:52 PM
HOly hours of sanding Batman.... Don't you use power tools? Sanding dosen't take that long to get a smoooooth finish. The only thing that I would need shipped is the drivers form partsexpress. The rest we have at home or I could pick up from my former wood shop teacher.
you don't power sand the finish i hope..............

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 07:58 PM
Oh lord no, not the finish....

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 07:59 PM
Oh lord no, not the finish....
*wipes brow* :D

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 08:00 PM
For the values on the SNF... Did you get

3.374 mF (mF is Micro Farads isn't it...and isn't 10^-4 micro?)
.0062H (inductance is Henries isn't it?)
7.35 ohm

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 08:03 PM
For the values on the SNF... Did you get

3.374 mF (mF is Micro Farads isn't it...and isn't 10^-4 micro?)
.0062H (inductance is Henries isn't it?)
7.35 ohm
hmm i had 3.3 microfarads (uF, micro is 10^-6)
.7 mH
and a 7 ohm non inductive resistor

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 08:06 PM
Ahhh....Thanks, my electronics is a little rusty.

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 08:09 PM
tsk tsk tsk :)

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 08:11 PM
Me thinks a trip to radio shack is in order once that **** money order gets here....

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 08:15 PM
they sell aircore inductors and **** there?

ballstothewall
11-14-2005, 08:17 PM
idk, but I can have a look around...Or else I can get ahold of someone that works in the labs here at ksu and get them to borrow some parts for me...hehe

PV Audio
11-14-2005, 08:34 PM
hmm yeah, i never thought they sold at least audio grade components.

InhumanAcura
11-14-2005, 08:57 PM
came out nice :)

you happy overall?

PV Audio
11-15-2005, 08:12 AM
indeed, very happy, sounds MUCH better than i thought full range would. thank god i don't have tubes pushing them :D