View Full Version : Very cool project I stumbled across.

09-06-2005, 03:27 PM
If you think full-range speakers are expensive...


Try those out. Yeah, bass response only to 125Hz, but you're probably going to use a subwoofer anyway.

Just thought it was a cool implementation of it.

09-09-2005, 10:07 AM
Ever heard one?

If you're talking about off-axis response, a wooden phase plug will solve all the issues with that...

planet10, one of the mods over on DIYaudio, has a little side-business of modifying Fostex drivers for better imaging. I've even heard of people carefully slicing the dustcap off and putting a socket wrench head on it, so the magnet attracts it...sort of a kludge, but it works :)

09-09-2005, 11:09 AM
lol. thats pretty funny there jack. slicing the cap of and a socket wrench :laugh:

thats silly :)

09-09-2005, 11:16 AM
Let me get you pics...I **** you not.


The Fostex FE206E 8" driver, as modified by Decware.

09-09-2005, 11:41 AM
wow thats hilarous :)

09-09-2005, 11:42 AM
Hilarity sells for $295 a pair :D

While the stock drivers minus the socket head are about half that...

Audiophools. We love 'em. :crap:

09-09-2005, 11:43 AM
ummmm....kludge? wtf?

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeeee :peace:

09-09-2005, 11:44 AM

Sort of a technical slang term...

Like if I used lightbulbs as phase plugs, I would be "kludging" it together :)

09-09-2005, 11:47 AM
awwwww.....kinda like this forum....

a kludgesterfalk....

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeeeeee :peace:

09-09-2005, 11:48 AM
Sort of...a kludge implies that it works...unlike most of this forum :)

09-09-2005, 11:50 AM


dammit..i thought kludgesterfalk was a kewl word....

i'm still gonna use it!

so, what's the purpose of the socket?

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeeeeeeeeee :peace:

09-09-2005, 11:51 AM
You can use it if you want...

le arrrrrrgghh!

09-09-2005, 01:23 PM
re: Phase plug mods.

They work, it's audible.

I modded an NSB with a phase plug, run it full range and I did some blind
tests, the phase plug version was chosen all the time. I also did cone
treatment mods and blind tests, works great too. {also did coolant tests /evil }

I used a balsa wood model rocket nose cone that I placed on the drill press
and used the press as a lathe to mill down the thickness to fit the speaker.
Balsa wood is easy to shape with some sand paper while the cone spins.

Then, use minwax wood hardener liquid and soak the wood in it, let dry, repeat.
The cone is now hard and ready for paint.

To attach the plug, it's easy. Drill a hole at the base and countersink the hole.
Insert a metal flat head wood screw flush with the cone base and the magnetic
field holds the cone in place.

09-09-2005, 01:26 PM
Yeah...Lemans was wrong, big surprise there :D

09-09-2005, 06:12 PM
My NSB diary here;

Page 6.

The phase plug can be anything you want for the most part.
The diameter has to be small enough to fit, too big it rubs,
too small it looks fugly. The length ? I chose a length that
won't allow the plug to stick out from the speaker when
looking at it sideways. 1.25" ?

Materials? Aluminum with black anodize or chrome would
look sharp. Who will make it ? A machine shop? Do you
have a lathe? Also, if you use ferrofluid the metal phase
plug can act like a heatsink to boost power handling, but
realistically you don't need this. The metal just looks cool
and seems more professional. It's too expensive to do
so there is another choice below.

Wood? You can turn your own nose cone on a lathe using
some 3/4" dowels.

I chose the rocket nose cones because it's just cheaper
because I don't have the budget or equipment to make
it awesome.

I used this cone #19091

3 cones for $4 is not a bad price. The problem is.. The OD
is 0.765", it's too fat... It's ok though. If you measure
from the tip of the cone down ~ 1.25", that is the region
that is thinner and all you need to do is trim some of the diameter off. What I did was insert a wood screw on the nose cone base so it will fit into the drill press. As the
drill press spins I use 80 - 150 grit sand paper to sand
down the diameter to around .68", then it fits into the NSB
well. You can use an ordinary drill if you can have someone
help you hold it.

It's balsa wood so the sandpaper will eat it fast. Also,
the wood is soft so if you squeeze the cone you can dent
it. To solve this issue I tried some minwax sanding sealer
and let the wood soak in the can for a minute, then removed
it, let it drain off the cone. When it dries do another coat.
2 or 3 coats is good. Then it accepts paint easier and it's
smooth and harder. Looks pretty good.

To secure the nose cone in place inside the speaker all
you need a flat head metal wood screw. Insert the wood screw on the base, coutersinking the screw would be better.
The magnet will hold the cone in place because the screw
is metal.. You can insert/rmove the phase plugs at will.

The only problem I had was when I was doing the torture
test where I wanted to burn up one of my NSB's driven
by 400w clipping, the ferrofluid mod. The driver got so
hot that the paint melt off the phase plug and the voice
coil fused. If you don't do this then you shouldn't have
any paint issues.


I have 288 NSB's in storage :laugh: :banghead: :awesome:

Order more and make a Death Array with PT2's using my recipe and you will
own store bought speakers easy, even the expensive ones. :crazy:

<George Zimmer> I guarantee it, mens warehouse.

09-10-2005, 02:50 PM
You're gonna like the way it sounds...?


PV Audio
09-10-2005, 03:05 PM
yeah thylantyr knows a thing or two about audio....****