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View Full Version : Dayton Ref Sheilding Removal



Berry47
08-28-2005, 12:26 PM
Anyone have any ideas. I really need to get a baffle behind these in my doors.

OlogyAudio
08-28-2005, 12:52 PM
Anyone have any ideas. I really need to get a baffle behind these in my doors.
hit it with a hammer -- the glue is brittle and snaps

JAZN
08-28-2005, 02:44 PM
http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showthread.php?threadid=102884

sephiroth619
08-28-2005, 03:09 PM
Is there an audible differene with keeping the magnet on or off?

OlogyAudio
08-28-2005, 03:23 PM
Is there an audible differene with keeping the magnet on or off?

sure isn't :) -- the motor structure isolates the coil from the bucking magnet nicely -- making as if the bucking magnet doesn't exist...

squeak9798
08-28-2005, 04:40 PM
:word:

The bucking magnet is only there for video shielding. No audible difference with or without it.

And, as mentioned and linked......basically just smack it with a hammer. Don't hit 'er extremely hard though. Just enough to loosen it up.

Berry47
08-28-2005, 08:47 PM
This is awsome... I know have the depth to put these either in my kicks that are under construction or my doors.

THe kicks are less then 1 ft. center to center from my stock door pods. The daytons will be running from around 40 hz all the way up to around 1.5k. Should I put the daytons or my midrange cdt's in the kicks. The kicks are not angled towards the driver they are merely off axis like the door pod. THanks for the replys.

Berry47
08-29-2005, 09:11 PM
Well I need new speakers. I followed the directions listed above but for some reason mine separated at eh ebacking plate not the shield. So when I took off the shield it took half of the speaker with it.

I hit it in all the right places and now I am out $80. I'm sort of pissed.

Berry47
08-29-2005, 09:14 PM
http://img399.imageshack.us/img399/6822/0608050160xj.th.jpg (http://img399.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0608050160xj.jpg)

This is what came out. So now I need new midbass drivers that work well IB..

JAZN
08-29-2005, 10:46 PM
aww sorry to hear about that man.

Berry47
08-29-2005, 11:05 PM
Its cool. I just hooked up my cdt's and did my best to cover the scars from my kick panel augmentation. I haven't run 300 watts rms to the cdt's for a while and I forgot how good it sounds. Maybe I'll try to just leave it for a while.

noob with an RS
08-30-2005, 05:11 PM
that fuccing succs like **** man. it also discourages me from buyinga n ology audio set.. =0(

audiolife
08-30-2005, 06:47 PM
i was going to suggest a chain saw...but seeing how things went

pelayostyle
09-01-2005, 06:12 PM
OMG !!! im so sorry man

///M5
09-01-2005, 07:51 PM
Sorry to hear that. Any recommendations on how to make it so it won't happen if you get another set?

Berry47
09-01-2005, 10:24 PM
I'm just going to be content for the next few months. I'm a full time engineering student and alos work for an auto parts store so I think i'll save my money for my wife's next car. SHe has decided that now i've put a cd player with a remote in her car, whe doesn't know how she lived without it. lol

To really step up in quality would really require kicks, and I have way to big of feet to do that.

///M5
09-01-2005, 11:31 PM
I know how you feel, the size 15's aren't giving me a lot of options in my design either.

OlogyAudio
09-02-2005, 06:39 PM
wow how did you pull that off?! -- There is this one guy having issues getting the bucking magnet off... need to get my drivers w/o the bucking cup/magnet in a hurry don't I lol...

Berry47
09-03-2005, 01:46 AM
I followed all the directions. It seems as though the glue holding the backing plate was the weak link on my speakers. That was the first place they both broke off.

Its ok though, my CDT's sound great with 300 watts a piece.