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jimmclrk1
08-13-2005, 02:12 AM
What exactly are the inner and outer panels? I have read the tutorial, and I just need to know those terms. Is the outer the actual door, the metal? And is the inner the plastic part that clips onto the metal?



Edit:... nevermind, I think I got it. The outer is the one that the speaker is mounted in, and the inner is the part where my door handle (on the inside) is?

jimmclrk1
08-13-2005, 02:29 AM
I know I said nevermind... but some confirmation wouldn't hurt!

Fate710
08-13-2005, 02:39 AM
the inner panels are the insides of your door panel. there is the actually door and then there is the inside of the panel.

jimmclrk1
08-13-2005, 02:43 AM
the inner panels are the insides of your door panel. there is the actually door and then there is the inside of the panel.


Ok... in the sound deadening tutorial, it mentions Inner and Outer Panels. If I am understanding right, the Outer Panel is the panel with the speaker cut out. The Inner Panel is the panel that you take off of the door to work on your speakers. Is this correct?

PRIVATEpastry
08-13-2005, 02:44 AM
Yep.

SSS 18734
08-13-2005, 02:46 AM
no... inner door is the inside of the outer door, u know the part where u can touch from the outside.
outer is where the speaker is mounted

Fate710
08-13-2005, 02:47 AM
no. The door panel is the panel they are talking about. You take off your door panel and coat/lay out the deadner you are using on the inside of the door panel. then you also coat/lay out the deander on the actually door

jimmclrk1
08-13-2005, 02:49 AM
Thank you! That's what I was looking for. So to eliminate most of my rattling problems, I need to concentrate on the panel that the speaker is mounted in? My rear midbass speakers sound like *** because the panel they are on rattles like crazy.

PRIVATEpastry
08-13-2005, 02:50 AM
I always thought when they talk about inner/outer door they mean the inside of the door panel, and the metal part where the speaker is mounted...

jimmclrk1
08-13-2005, 02:53 AM
I always thought when they talk about inner/outer door they mean the inside of the door panel, and the metal part where the speaker is mounted...


Honestly... that's what I always thought. I don't really understand putting weight on the metal door... it doesn't rattle. The panel where the speaker is mounted rattles, and the door panel that I take off rattles.

jimmclrk1
08-13-2005, 07:36 PM
So uh... who is right?

iceteebone
08-13-2005, 07:53 PM
the inner panel is the part behind the speaker and the outer is where the speaker mounts. you want to deaden the inner panel to kill the backwaves from the speaker, and it does rattle from the outside. the door panel is called the door panel.

QuikSilverRS91
08-15-2005, 06:28 PM
Yeah and also if you think about it, where is the wind hitting your car on the freeway? It's not hitting your plastic door panel its hitting the outside of the door itself. So by sound deadening the inside panel (panel BEHIND the speaker) you would not only kill the backwaves from the speaker but you would reduce roadnoise because the metal wouldn't be able to vibrate as easily from the wind.

PRIVATEpastry
08-15-2005, 06:43 PM
How do you go about deadening inside there?

QuikSilverRS91
08-15-2005, 06:49 PM
Well you would cut some sound deadener (Dynamat... Tsunami... etc.) in shapes small enough to fit through the speaker hole... then stick your arm up in the door and go to town with a roller.
Tip: This doesn't work too well with the window rolled down.

TeenWolf
08-16-2005, 02:47 AM
the inner panel is the part behind the speaker and the outer is where the speaker mounts. you want to deaden the inner panel to kill the backwaves from the speaker, and it does rattle from the outside. the door panel is called the door panel.

That's my understanding too. However, don't expect sound deadening to be a 100% solution to rattle noise. It will certainly help, but you may still hear some unwanted noise when you crank up the volume.

QuikSilverRS91
08-16-2005, 12:11 PM
Sound Deadening only truely works when you do the entire vehicle. But there are certain areas that you can do that will help (trunk, trunk lid, door panels). TeenWolf is right though, you could Dynamat your entire car with 10 layers and there's still a really good chance that somewhere there will still be a rattle.

DIPayton
08-16-2005, 12:14 PM
Tip: This doesn't work too well with the window rolled down.
****, now that was my problem.





lol, jk.

95Prober
08-16-2005, 12:34 PM
some guys are giving conflicting stories here on the first page. i think you DONT ever deaden the plastic/vinyl door panel that you pry off to get to your speaker etc. correct??
i mean mat wouldnt stick to it well probably right??

i always thought you:

1. deaden the whole door where the speaker mounts to after you take the door panel off

2. then cut small pieces and reach up and do the back side of that side you just did. the side where the speaker mounting screws would come through

3. and finally, reach in the hole with more small pieces and and stick it all on the outer door side. this is the side that has no speaker or anything touching it. so 3 sides all together.

is this correct??

Justintoxicated
08-16-2005, 01:33 PM
some guys are giving conflicting stories here on the first page. i think you DONT ever deaden the plastic/vinyl door panel that you pry off to get to your speaker etc. correct??
i mean mat wouldnt stick to it well probably right??


I did, mine is 2 pieces of plastic pressed together, I deadened the **** out of it. I tried it with only a little deadening and there were still rattles, after adding a few more lbs of RAAMAT they are much reduced but at certain frequencies I still hear some (Subs will cover it up thoguh when I get them installed)

IMO it may or may not be necessary, in my case I may pull it back off to add even more. I also noticed the plastic clips can resonate, so I added little rings I cut from some ensolite foam to them.

I think the ensolite foam really reduced road noise and would recomend it.



i always thought you:

1. deaden the whole door where the speaker mounts to after you take the door panel off.

2. then cut small pieces and reach up and do the back side of that side you just did. the side where the speaker mounting screws would come through

3. and finally, reach in the hole with more small pieces and and stick it all on the outer door side. this is the side that has no speaker or anything touching it. so 3 sides all together.

is this correct??

No, I would deaden the outer portion of the door first (the part that is painted on the outside. 1-2 layers of 60 mil RAAMAT...

Then Behind where the speaker will be mounted I would make sure to add 3 layers of RAAMAT and Cover with Ensolite Foam (at least some kind of foam if you choose not to buy ensolite)

Then, Matt the inner skin and seal up all the openings. It is recomended to first seal them off with Plexy or sheet aluminum, but there were way too many areas on mine, and I wanted to be able to get into those openings easily so I just covered all the open areas with RAAMAT, so they are sealed well still, but not as well as if I had used something ehidn the Matt, I dunno how much difference this makes cause the Midbass still sounds great. The important thing is to seal it up. Then cover with Ensolite foam.

Make sure you don't cover the area where the door clips/pops go back in Leae abotu 1/2 inch between the pop holes and your Deadener.

I did not do step 2, it's really not necessary, and in some cases may interfear with the windows. But if it works for you I doubt it would hurt. But it would be a real pain in the *** since you will be covering up bolt holes and other things from the inside. On m vehicles there were places that were nearly impossible to even reach on the inside of the inner door panel. However if you want to do it, you can try it.

Justintoxicated
08-16-2005, 01:35 PM
I'd sugest uing an MDF Adapter to mount your speakers, I used foam weatherstripping between the MDF and door Panel to ensure a rel good seal. And so I could really smash down that dense foam, I used Allenhead bolts and lock Nylock Nuts from Home Depo / Lowes

95Prober
08-16-2005, 01:47 PM
I did, mine is 2 pieces of plastic pressed together, I deadened the **** out of it. I tried it with only a little deadening and there were still rattles, after adding a few more lbs of RAAMAT they are much reduced but at certain frequencies I still hear some (Subs will cover it up thoguh when I get them installed)

IMO it may or may not be necessary, in my case I may pull it back off to add even more. I also noticed the plastic clips can resonate, so I added little rings I cut from some ensolite foam to them.

I think the ensolite foam really reduced road noise and would recomend it.



No, I would deaden the outer portion of the door first (the part that is painted on the outside. 1-2 layers of 60 mil RAAMAT...

Then Behind where the speaker will be mounted I would make sure to add 3 layers of RAAMAT and Cover with Ensolite Foam (at least some kind of foam if you choose not to buy ensolite)

Then, Matt the inner skin and seal up all the openings. It is recomended to first seal them off with Plexy or sheet aluminum, but there were way too many areas on mine, and I wanted to be able to get into those openings easily so I just covered all the open areas with RAAMAT, so they are sealed well still, but not as well as if I had used something ehidn the Matt, I dunno how much difference this makes cause the Midbass still sounds great. The important thing is to seal it up. Then cover with Ensolite foam.

Make sure you don't cover the area where the door clips/pops go back in Leae abotu 1/2 inch between the pop holes and your Deadener.

I did not do step 2, it's really not necessary, and in some cases may interfear with the windows. But if it works for you I doubt it would hurt. But it would be a real pain in the *** since you will be covering up bolt holes and other things from the inside. On m vehicles there were places that were nearly impossible to even reach on the inside of the inner door panel. However if you want to do it, you can try it.

thx for some help. well my steps were in no particular order, just i thought i would do those sections. so does the mat stick well to the inside of the plastic panels that you pull of to get to the speakers assuming the area is clean?? i dont want to waste mat if it just falls off later

also, what is this "Ensolite Foam" is there another name for it or a brand that i can be more familiar with?

thx

95Prober
08-16-2005, 01:50 PM
I'd sugest uing an MDF Adapter to mount your speakers, I used foam weatherstripping between the MDF and door Panel to ensure a rel good seal. And so I could really smash down that dense foam, I used Allenhead bolts and lock Nylock Nuts from Home Depo / Lowes

yeah im going to do it like that. but i was just thinking, when you tighten down the speaker/mdf with the bolts and nylon nuts, how in the heck do you get in behind the speaker to put the nut on and tighten it down? or do the nuts go on the outside? sorry if it sounds like a stupid question

Anthony Collova
08-16-2005, 01:53 PM
Inner door skin = metal panel inside the door whos opposite is outside the car.
Outter door skin = metal panel speaker and upholstery attaches to



So by sound deadening the inside panel (panel BEHIND the speaker) you would not only kill the backwaves from the speaker but you...
Sorta
you dont kill the back waves by deadening this panel. you kill the vibrations caused by the rtear waves. to kill th erear waves you have to absorb the waves, not the vibrations. to do this you can use a number of materials. carpet, carpet foam, open and closed cell foam, extruded rubber, clay...
the foil that is on most dampers will reflect the rear waves back at the speaker just as the undampend metal will.

ANT