+ Reply to Thread
Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 LastLast
Results 91 to 105 of 107

Reload Thread: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

  1. #91
    Jeffdachef's Avatar
    Jeffdachef is online now Gunz That Turn on Nunz



    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    South Coast Metro, CA
    Posts
    16,189
    Post Thanks / Like
    Images
    1
    Mentioned
    245 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    7917 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    its all good buddy. I went a bit overboard with the roasting, bad habit my bad. You are officially initiated into the forum



    09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k
    Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS................................Mids/Highs amp: CT 500.2, ppi 600.2, ppi 900.4 bridged
    Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.
    320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.




  2. #92
    youdoofus's Avatar
    youdoofus is online now Well, hello Mr.Fancypants



    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    the void of space called the midwest
    Posts
    2,355
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    1040 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffdachef View Post
    its all good buddy. I went a bit overboard with the roasting, bad habit my bad. You are officially initiated into the forum
    does that mean he is now allowed to get the forum gang tattoo?



    2002 Honda Accord sedan V6 (automatic slushbox)
    2 Rockford p3 12s (dual 2 ohm)
    Pioneer AVH-2300NEX
    2 PPI PC275's running 1 sub each atm, waiting to put the SQ 2200.1 back in and add the PhoenixGold Elite.4 once my electrical is up to snuff
    Front stage:PRV Audio 6MB200 6.5 and Massive Audio CT2 tweeters
    Rear speakers: stock
    I just added 5 SoundQubed stickers, and despite having no equipment upgrades, it added 76 DB!!!

  3. #93
    ThxOne's Avatar
    ThxOne is online now Senior VIP Member

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Saint Marys, GA
    Posts
    169
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    100 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    Sweet. Now my Birthday has new meaning!!



    HU - eXcelon KDC-X998
    Components - eXcelon XR-1700P - front
    Coaxials - eXcelon KFC-X174 - rear fill
    Sub - Single RF Punch P3D4 (@ 2ohms) 10" Labyrinth slot port enclosure
    Sub Amp - (Temporary) Punch Prime 1200-D <-- it's a beast (US Acoustics "Mike" coming soon)
    Full Range Amp - US Acoustics Barbara Ann
    150a Alternator - (10 Farad Stinger Hybrid Capacitor) - Sky High Cables - Stinger Distribution Blocks - Sky High Battery Terminals - Big 4 upgrade

  4. #94
    Jcsaudio's Avatar
    Jcsaudio is offline Senior VIP Member



    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Worcester, MA
    Posts
    394
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    177 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    ThxOne, you’ve come up with some pretty dam good rebuttals there man. Gotta give that one to you! I’ve been thrown into the fire here too, kind of an explosive atmosphere here.

    Welcome to the forum



    2014 Sienna 2-way active SQ system. SB Acoustics SB29RDCN Tweeters. Focal PS165V mid woofers. Pioneer D9500F 75 watts RMS x 4. Pioneer BHS 5800 HU. AudioControl EQX. 10” Alpine SWS sub in custom ported box tuned to 35 hz on JBL GTX 500.
    2014 F-150 XL WT 2-way active budget SQ system. Tang Band 25-302SH 1" tweeters. Dayton Audio ND140-4 mid woofers. Pioneer D8604. JBL Club 5501. JL Audio Twk 88 DSP & FIX 86. Sundown SD3 10” sub ported/ 33Hz 1 cube.
    2014 CX5 3-way active SQ system. Pioneer 1330 NIX HU. Dayton AMT tweeters. Celestion AN2775 2-3/4 midrange. NVX XSP65 mid woofers. Pioneer PRS D4200F 75 WPC x 4. Infinity K1000. JL Audio Twk 88 DSP. Sundown SA 12” 2 cube/33Hz.

  5. #95
    ThxOne's Avatar
    ThxOne is online now Senior VIP Member

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Saint Marys, GA
    Posts
    169
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    100 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    Thanks Jcsaudio... I'm going to work on my responses though... and mellow out a bit.



    HU - eXcelon KDC-X998
    Components - eXcelon XR-1700P - front
    Coaxials - eXcelon KFC-X174 - rear fill
    Sub - Single RF Punch P3D4 (@ 2ohms) 10" Labyrinth slot port enclosure
    Sub Amp - (Temporary) Punch Prime 1200-D <-- it's a beast (US Acoustics "Mike" coming soon)
    Full Range Amp - US Acoustics Barbara Ann
    150a Alternator - (10 Farad Stinger Hybrid Capacitor) - Sky High Cables - Stinger Distribution Blocks - Sky High Battery Terminals - Big 4 upgrade

  6. #96
    staan's Avatar
    staan is offline CarAudio.com Elite



    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    new orleans, la
    Posts
    531
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    347 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    Quote Originally Posted by ThxOne View Post
    The issue was never related to my Cap. It wasn't then, isn't now and won't be in the future. There was a loose ground that wasn't visible and that is not the easiest ground to get to. Because IT WAS IN FACT LOOSE, voltage was dropping on my voltage gauge when upper bass and mids were playing which is handled by my CLASS A/B amp. After looking my system over and MISSING the loose ground, I came on here, to the experts... I forgot that because someone is an expert or has great knowledge, they become condescending know it all's and everyone is beneath them and their massive amount of knowledge and experience which apparently makes them aggressive and rude and the only way for the pain to stop is to be rude when they "help" others. SOMEONE mentioned grounds...
    So after being into the hobby for so long was the ground never tight? I ask this cause you came on here asking if your voltage situation was normal, meaning its always been like that for you and your asking if its common. So either you installed the ground loose and the systems been behaving like that the whole time and you found your mistake and corrected it. It also seems possible there was no loose ground and you bought a bigger cap thinking it will fix your voltage problem which the people have tried to help you realize and fix from the beginning. It's not condescending and knowitall to tell someone that bs marketing products don't work, it's actually helpful. But i guess if it goes against your opinionated views you get hostile towards it.

    5 farads of capacitance will run a head unit by itself for less than 10 seconds, one bass hit from a 1200 watt amp will drain your new cap almost instantly, so by adding it you are actually adding overall current draw to your system by having to constantly refill that cap.




  7. #97
    ThxOne's Avatar
    ThxOne is online now Senior VIP Member

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Saint Marys, GA
    Posts
    169
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    100 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    Periodically I check, clean and re-tighten my connections if needed. Upon doing this, I neglected one of my grounds. The ground from the Alt case to the battery. At this point the only ground to the battery was a small factory ground. I found the issue, fixed it and my voltage was fine again. Your opinion is that caps are a marketing scam... that is your opinion and you are entitled to it. I won't force my opinion on you. It is 10 farad, not 5. Since it is your opinion that I have just added another current draw to my system with my small cap then you must concede that adding a larger, slower charging, higher capacitance battery is doing the same thing but on a grander scale? Right?



    HU - eXcelon KDC-X998
    Components - eXcelon XR-1700P - front
    Coaxials - eXcelon KFC-X174 - rear fill
    Sub - Single RF Punch P3D4 (@ 2ohms) 10" Labyrinth slot port enclosure
    Sub Amp - (Temporary) Punch Prime 1200-D <-- it's a beast (US Acoustics "Mike" coming soon)
    Full Range Amp - US Acoustics Barbara Ann
    150a Alternator - (10 Farad Stinger Hybrid Capacitor) - Sky High Cables - Stinger Distribution Blocks - Sky High Battery Terminals - Big 4 upgrade

  8. #98
    LosIsATool's Avatar
    LosIsATool is online now CarAudio.com Veteran



    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Pensacola, Florida
    Age
    37
    Posts
    18,380
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    110 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    7897 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    Quote Originally Posted by ThxOne View Post
    Periodically I check, clean and re-tighten my connections if needed. Upon doing this, I neglected one of my grounds. The ground from the Alt case to the battery. At this point the only ground to the battery was a small factory ground. I found the issue, fixed it and my voltage was fine again. Your opinion is that caps are a marketing scam... that is your opinion and you are entitled to it. I won't force my opinion on you. It is 10 farad, not 5. Since it is your opinion that I have just added another current draw to my system with my small cap then you must concede that adding a larger, slower charging, higher capacitance battery is doing the same thing but on a grander scale? Right?
    Again. You should not need a cap or a battery.
    And the cap theory is proven. If you look inside then the cap is surrounded by filler. The cap itself is the same size as the ones inside your amps. Therefor. It is a gimmick.



    2014 Ford Fusion SE 2.0T
    JBL MS-8
    Zapco ST-4X SQ, ST-1000XMii
    IDQ12v4 1.8cu sealed
    Alpine SPX Pro ring radiators
    Hertz HV165XL
    Knuconceptz OFC, Custom fit Soundrive RCAs.

  9. Likes Boominburban liked this post
  10. #99
    ThxOne's Avatar
    ThxOne is online now Senior VIP Member

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Saint Marys, GA
    Posts
    169
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    100 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    So Stinger is selling products that are not what they say they are? Since when is Stinger not a reputable American company?



    HU - eXcelon KDC-X998
    Components - eXcelon XR-1700P - front
    Coaxials - eXcelon KFC-X174 - rear fill
    Sub - Single RF Punch P3D4 (@ 2ohms) 10" Labyrinth slot port enclosure
    Sub Amp - (Temporary) Punch Prime 1200-D <-- it's a beast (US Acoustics "Mike" coming soon)
    Full Range Amp - US Acoustics Barbara Ann
    150a Alternator - (10 Farad Stinger Hybrid Capacitor) - Sky High Cables - Stinger Distribution Blocks - Sky High Battery Terminals - Big 4 upgrade

  11. #100
    Clifff150's Avatar
    Clifff150 is offline Senior VIP Member



    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    330
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    119 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    One thing to commend the OP for is the amazing use of punctuation. Your responses were very long but very easy to read and I can't thank you enough for that haha.




  12. Likes Smaple liked this post
  13. #101
    ThxOne's Avatar
    ThxOne is online now Senior VIP Member

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Saint Marys, GA
    Posts
    169
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    100 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    I'm going to have to get an darn battery aren't I? I have had this Jeep for over 4 years. It's a hunk of crap, a beater plain and simple. There have been and are electrical gremlins. I had a 1996 Nissan 200sx with a factory alternator and stock style battery running a 4awg power wire to the back. I ran two 12" JBL's in a ported box with a JBL Crown amp. A 1 farad Monster cap. Not once ever did a light dim or voltage drop and those 12's hit hard. Maybe it's time to let the Jeep go.




    HU - eXcelon KDC-X998
    Components - eXcelon XR-1700P - front
    Coaxials - eXcelon KFC-X174 - rear fill
    Sub - Single RF Punch P3D4 (@ 2ohms) 10" Labyrinth slot port enclosure
    Sub Amp - (Temporary) Punch Prime 1200-D <-- it's a beast (US Acoustics "Mike" coming soon)
    Full Range Amp - US Acoustics Barbara Ann
    150a Alternator - (10 Farad Stinger Hybrid Capacitor) - Sky High Cables - Stinger Distribution Blocks - Sky High Battery Terminals - Big 4 upgrade

  14. #102
    Jeffdachef's Avatar
    Jeffdachef is online now Gunz That Turn on Nunz



    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    South Coast Metro, CA
    Posts
    16,189
    Post Thanks / Like
    Images
    1
    Mentioned
    245 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    7917 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    without actual clamp testing and current measures with a fluke meter we honestly cant really tell but in almost all cases the traditional 1-100 cap doesnt really help much, not unless its these kinds of caps coupled with a high output alternator. About 3000 farads per piece. We do use caps but if the setup's alternator cant keep up in the first place, the cap itself pretty useless. If the alt can keep up than the setup doesnt really need the cap either. The setups involving these ultracaps require extremely fast high powered discharge for a single burp and these caps store a lot of power and dump a lot of power and i mean A LOT of power. You can actually get several thousand farads of a smaller bank for the same price as the 10 farad stinger cap and for sure you will notice a giant difference with those. They are industry regulated too compared to car audio where there's literally zero regulations so the farads you getting are actual TRUE farads. There's a lot better things you can get for your money nowadays bang for buck wise and overall performance to cost wise. Same with welding cable, from a proper source its just as flexible as car audio cable but the quality of copper is much higher and the wire is industry regulated while car audio cable has zero regulations and the welding cable is 1.6 dollars a foot for 1/0 and 2 dollars for 2/0 while car audio cables are 4-8 dollars a foot for inferior 1/0 unregulated wire. Car audio is an unregulated world of manufacturer lies and marketing sadly.

    ps i'm not using my condescending tone, I'm legit just having a normal conversation here....




    09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k
    Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS................................Mids/Highs amp: CT 500.2, ppi 600.2, ppi 900.4 bridged
    Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.
    320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

  15. Likes Boominburban liked this post
  16. #103
    ThxOne's Avatar
    ThxOne is online now Senior VIP Member

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Saint Marys, GA
    Posts
    169
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    100 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    I'm following what you are saying, thanks. I have been reading, and reading and reading some more today. For the last almost 8 years or so I dealt with being in relationships and barely paid attention to car audio. Now I am focusing on me and I am much happier. I have some disposable income and why not, let's try one of those batteries. You see what I have for amplifiers, cables and alternator... What specific battery would you suggest? I am all ears and open to suggestions. Also, I live in an area that has nothing but I am able to cross the boarder into Jacksonville Florida.

    1. What battery?
    2. Expected cost?
    3. Where can I get it? Sam's Club is not an option. No membership or access to anyone with a membership.



    HU - eXcelon KDC-X998
    Components - eXcelon XR-1700P - front
    Coaxials - eXcelon KFC-X174 - rear fill
    Sub - Single RF Punch P3D4 (@ 2ohms) 10" Labyrinth slot port enclosure
    Sub Amp - (Temporary) Punch Prime 1200-D <-- it's a beast (US Acoustics "Mike" coming soon)
    Full Range Amp - US Acoustics Barbara Ann
    150a Alternator - (10 Farad Stinger Hybrid Capacitor) - Sky High Cables - Stinger Distribution Blocks - Sky High Battery Terminals - Big 4 upgrade

  17. #104
    Jeffdachef's Avatar
    Jeffdachef is online now Gunz That Turn on Nunz



    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    South Coast Metro, CA
    Posts
    16,189
    Post Thanks / Like
    Images
    1
    Mentioned
    245 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    7917 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    Quote Originally Posted by ThxOne View Post
    I'm following what you are saying, thanks. I have been reading, and reading and reading some more today. For the last almost 8 years or so I dealt with being in relationships and barely paid attention to car audio. Now I am focusing on me and I am much happier. I have some disposable income and why not, let's try one of those batteries. You see what I have for amplifiers, cables and alternator... What specific battery would you suggest? I am all ears and open to suggestions. Also, I live in an area that has nothing but I am able to cross the boarder into Jacksonville Florida.

    1. What battery?
    2. Expected cost?
    3. Where can I get it? Sam's Club is not an option. No membership or access to anyone with a membership.
    oreilly, autozone, advanced auto, nappa, as long as they have the words platinum AGM in their name. Bring a multi-meter with you and make sure you pick the one thats higher resting voltage, it means that the place actually maintains their batteries through a trickle charger so it should be good to last longer. Sears diehard platinum is a rebadge of odyssey batteries which is an upper tier car audio battery brand a group 31 will be over 200 for these kinds but you can get a smaller size for less.



    09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k
    Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS................................Mids/Highs amp: CT 500.2, ppi 600.2, ppi 900.4 bridged
    Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.
    320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

  18. #105
    ThxOne's Avatar
    ThxOne is online now Senior VIP Member

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Saint Marys, GA
    Posts
    169
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    100 Post(s)

    Re: Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

    Thanks Jeffdachef. I will pick one up this weekend. As a former employee of 3 different auto parts houses, (AA, AZ, Or) I can tell you we never maintained the batteries. If they were there too long, we sent them back. I will start at the front of the Jeep first. A group 34 or 34/78 AGM. Most likely from Oreil... I think East Penn (Deka) still makes their SuperStart Extreme AGM batteries.



    HU - eXcelon KDC-X998
    Components - eXcelon XR-1700P - front
    Coaxials - eXcelon KFC-X174 - rear fill
    Sub - Single RF Punch P3D4 (@ 2ohms) 10" Labyrinth slot port enclosure
    Sub Amp - (Temporary) Punch Prime 1200-D <-- it's a beast (US Acoustics "Mike" coming soon)
    Full Range Amp - US Acoustics Barbara Ann
    150a Alternator - (10 Farad Stinger Hybrid Capacitor) - Sky High Cables - Stinger Distribution Blocks - Sky High Battery Terminals - Big 4 upgrade

+ Reply to Thread
Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 21
    Last Post: 09-21-2011, 05:19 AM
  2. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 12-20-2004, 11:44 PM
  3. Replies: 10
    Last Post: 06-17-2004, 01:18 PM
  4. Class D, Class A, Class T. Whats the difference?
    By Try2makeitwork in forum Amplifiers
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 02-06-2004, 09:54 AM

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may post attachments
  • You may edit your posts
1e2 Forum