Just acquired a bunch of old PPI amps and need info

[okura_hubby]

back in 1988 I was a stereo installer. I been out of car audio for 24 years.. I joined the military and put what I had in storage.. Now cant find my old stuff so I started buying stuff to replace..
I just got a 2300, 2150, 2) 2075's and 2) 2050's.. If I can ever find the lost 223, 2150 and 2050 good.
Anyway.. all the amps have their wired plugs..
my question is the 2300, at first you think its a dual 2150 but its not, its a dual 2075.. 2 x 300 wats @ 4 ohm. I Know they have power ratings for the smaller ones in stereo at 2 ohm.. Can the 2300 handle 2 ohm? Well let me just ask can any of the original black M series PPI handle 2 ohm in bridged mono mode?
Originally I was going to run the 2300 and 2) 2150's to drive 4 15" but now thinking to use the 2300 and 2 2075's to do it. and use the 2150 to drive 4 10" and break the freq for the 10" at 400-100 and the 15" at 150-30.. That should be roughly 300W RMS to each 15" and 150W RMS to each 10". Going to run everything sealed.. Not after LOUD SPL just clean tight bass.

[audiobaun]

The 2300 will handle 2 ohms load ,but you have to keep her cool/elevated with some air movement.Specs call for 4 ohm if I recall, but so did most of the Hifonics VII,and Autotek MeanMachines,BTS series, as they are 2ohm stable with a nice fan on them,and good supply fed.

[PPI_GUY]

The 2300M can handle 2 ohm stereo loads but, cannot be bridged internally. You can use an external bridging module such as the Orion BDG400 or anything that will sum the signal source going to the amp.
The 2300AM can handle 2 ohm stereo loads and can be internally bridged.
Neither amp is stable at 2 ohm mono (bridged). Don't try it.
These amps are not good choices for SPL. Old school, inefficient class a/b amps usually aren't. They make excellent SQ amps. They are also not high current amps (although PPI did make a few that were) stable into low ohm loads.

[Side Show]

prob wouldn't use both the 2300 and the 2150's to run subs at the same time

[okura_hubby]

Not going after SPL.. Putting it in a classic car.. I know they are old school, and they are clean sounding amps..
My plans are this.. I have 4 brand new in the box Lanzer 15" that I had instorage for 24 years. I got Lanzar to warentee them when I headed to Japan in 1991. So my intent is to run each woofer in its own enclosure. Then I plan to run the 2 2075M's in bridge/mono and the 2300M in 2 channel. But I am going to use them as bass. 2300M is basically a 2075 bridged (per channel). So should be 300watts RMS per speaker. I am not sure how I am going to use the single 2150M yet, all depends on if the other 2150M materializes.. My goal is just get some good quality sound in the old car.. Not looking to be SPL.. I am planning to make the 15" very low bass. And get some mid bass drivers like 4 8" drivers to do mid bass. Probably will need to get me some more 2050's or a 4 channel to drive all the mids.. Just want to get it done for the 2014 Hot Rod Powertour in July..

[Side Show]

do not run 2 subs off one amp and 2 subs off a different amp, they will not be seeing the exact same pwr and will bring your sound quality down.

those 15's being that old are prob rated at 200wrms each. i'd suggest you look into a few more wiring options.

ALSO those amps have killer sq

[okura_hubby]

As I said I am going to run the subs in separated chambers. So they will not be canceling or competing with air. As long as you separate the woofers so they are in their own environment they will perform the same as if I only had 1..

[smgreen20]

What LANZAR subs do you have, might I ask? I'm an old school LANZAR collector/freak.

[keep_hope_alive]

i get that the amp combo you have is basically the same as having four 2075M's so I don't see an issue. just use a scope to set gains and any minor differences will be no issue thanks to separate chambers.

but quit lying that you're "not going for SPL" when you want to run four 15's and four 10's.

one 12" can give "clean, tight bass".

all seriousness, i get what you're trying to do. those old 15's can play upper midbass just fine. but you can use the 2150 for midbass drivers and the 2050's for midrange and tweeters. you'll need some active crossovers though. sticking with the old school theme - an Alpine DRE-A500 would suit the build nicely (circa 1996).

my build has three Alpine amps from 1996 and the subs in there now are 1996 Hollywood's. I'm sitting on four Phoenix Gold 12's and thinking if I had the room I would find a way to make them work - cuz that's how we rolled in the 90's. but my one Hertz ML3000 will be all the sub i'll want or need.

[okura_hubby]

I will dig the speakers out of storage. They were never taken out of the box from where I sent the old ones into warentee. I blew some of them up doing an huge Iso box in a Nissan lowrider I will post up what they are. But they were the best that they made in circa 1989-1992..

[hispls]

IIRC the old Lanzar subs were made by Credence (in USA) so they're decent for what they are. That being said, if you buy a good modern 2000W class A/B amp for subs and get one high quality modern woofer you will outperform just about anything you're going to do with 4 late 80's woofers on inefficient power.

Keep the 2 channels to set up a good front stage, sell the extras and invest in some modern equipment for the low end. Subwoofer and class D technology has come a long way in this time and I wouldn't be surprised if subs that old don't have some issues just from age.

[DARKHART]

But they were the best that they made in circa 1989-1992..

Those should then be the Lanzar LP series of subs IIRC....had two of the LP12's, friggin beasts....I really miss mine....

[smgreen20]

The LP's came out in 92, but he had them between 88-92 from what I've gathered. I'm hoping they are the LP's. Those are my favorite subs of all time.

[okura_hubby]

I had them warenteed in 92' before I went to Japan and never used them since.