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class a/b !!!
I haven't studied the topic at all, but I ran across these in a quick search: Significance of slew rate - CARSOUND.COM Forum
2 Walmart batteries under the hood (recommended specs for my truck) on a GM 140 amp alternator (bought at AutoZone) ...
with all 1 awg/ 0 g welding cable ...
Front stage ... 2 Linear Power 2150s ... 150 watts per channel ...
sub stage ... 1 Linear Power 2250 ... 250 watts per channel, but running 8 ohms mono at the moment. Not sure what the actual wattage output is, but its VERY aggressive !!!
Randal Johnson ... Comcast Xfinity ... 1997 Chevy Silverado 1500 Extended Cab ... 1949 Ford Custom Tudor Sedan
Linear Power (TIPS) / Blues Car Audio ... Audio Technix ... Hyper Automotive LEDs and HIDs ... Mississippi Street Rod Association
Here is an interesting take on Class A/B vs Class D from the founder and former lead engineer of Image Dynamics. (hint: it's probably not what you think...)
Start reading at the post 32 and below:
Eric Stevens new company? - Page 2 - DIYMA Car Audio Forum
I have ran a/b amps since 88, and recently began to run d amps in one system, and a mixture of d on my subs,and a/b on front stage.i myself really cant tell a whole lot of real difference other than using an old zed made amp,which seems to have a richer deeper,cleaner sound,but they still sound very nice, my only concern of class d amps is,are they like the new digital tvs?being digital,do they only last a certain amount of working hours,then need replacement compared to a/b amps, that i have used for 15+yrs,without any issues?
If you buy a good quality amp and don't abuse it -- it's going to last.
If you buy a cheapo, and/or abuse a good amp it's probably not going to be around for long.
I don't think the class of the amp has much - if anything - to do with that.
My '00-01' Lanzar (Zed) class D is running fine.