Hey Guys,
Any suggestions on good, POWER EFFICIENT, digital sub amp? 1000-2000W range.
Thanks!
Rob
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Hey Guys,
Any suggestions on good, POWER EFFICIENT, digital sub amp? 1000-2000W range.
Thanks!
Rob
You need to specify a budget. Every brand has one and they're not all created equal. Also, it's Class D, which is not digital even though some companies insist on advertising them as such.
budget would be nice ?
I would say around $350 or less. Used is totally fine too. I'm more lookin for bang for the buck vs as much as I can spend.
One interesting amp is PPI Black Ice 1800 class D mono block. The specs it does 1800watt RMS at 1ohm/1100watt at 2ohm. The whole BLack Ice family is supposedly based on a soundstream design. Even if it's overrated a bit, the price of just over $200 online seems pretty attractive. It'd be interesting to see if anyone actually tested these.
I have one last Precision Power P1000.1 at $190 shipped. It's an underrated 1,000W RMS @ 1 Ohm. I have more of them coming but the price will be raised. The BK1800.1D zako mentioned is one I can do as well if you need more power, but it will be harder on your alternator.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gemcoska
Those are impressive numbers and I do have a soft spot for PPI. Gotta look for how much current draw it requires and see if a stock alternator for a 2000 suburban will support itQuote:
Originally Posted by zako
So I can't find any current draw requirements for the 1800.1D
The owners manual just calls for a giant external 160A fuse. I don't know what that implies. I doubt the current draw is 160 amps... is it?
http://www.precisionpower.com/html-v...k-Ice-Amps.pdf
PrecisionPower - Products - Amplifiers - Black Ice - BK1800.1D
Anyone know what kind of alternator power you need for these size amps?
Hifonics bx1000D used $80 shipped
I don't understand how it will be harder on the alternator. Doesn't the alt simply put out its rated amperage regardless if the amp is drawing less or more?Quote:
Originally Posted by trumpet
So if the amp is drawing more that the alt can put out, does the alt spin faster? wtf? I have no idea.......:laugh:
I don't understand how more amperage draw will make the alternator work "harder".
It will increase the duty cycle of your alternator. Your alternator puts out something like 14.4 v but its regulated to supply only what the vehicle needs. So while the alternator spins with the engine rpms, the current output is regulated. So a better alternator will have a higher rated duty cycle and a higher current output. YES? No...?Quote:
Originally Posted by Beatin'
Charging System BasicsQuote:
Originally Posted by Beatin'
If the alternator is frequently getting "maxed out" and trying its hardest to keep up with the demand of the sound system and running the vehicle then it will have a shortened life. This is what happens when your headlights blink. The alternator can't put out enough current, the voltage drops, and you have a problem.Quote:
Current Demand and Flow:
If you have an alternator that can produce 120 amps of current (max) and the the total current demand from the electrical accessories (including the battery) is only 20 amps, the alternator will only produce the necessary current (20 amps) to maintain the target voltage (which is determined by the alternator's internal voltage regulator). Remember that the alternator monitors the electrical system's voltage. If the voltage starts to fall below the target voltage (approximately 13.8 volts depending on the alternator's design), the alternator produces more current to keep the voltage up. When the demand for current is low, the full current capacity of the alternator is not used/produced (a 120 amp alternator does not continuously produce 120 amps unless there is a sufficient current draw).