He can make custom ones, not just what is on the websiteQuote:
Originally Posted by garretttt4
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He can make custom ones, not just what is on the websiteQuote:
Originally Posted by garretttt4
ok ill have to email him then. but you think this amp should have a total fuse rating to it of 300 amps?Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeK
do you know the email? i cant find it on the shop site... lolQuote:
Originally Posted by JoeK
edit: nvm i got it.
300a from front to back run, 150A per wire into the dual inputQuote:
Originally Posted by garretttt4
Ok. Got it. Haha thx.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeK
http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/docum...L%20080818.pdf
posted this for you a few weeks ago, guess you did not read it. fusing on page 6. not sure why memphis didn't put dual inputs on that amp, but sounds like you got that figured out
O ya! Thx I couldn't use the link last time on my phone.....Quote:
Originally Posted by dumpbeast86
I'm going to agree with @NASTY08IMPALA ;.
Fuses are to protect your CAR. Not your amp. You fuse according to wire size/capacity. If you feel like you are over-fusing for your amp, then by all means, use a smaller one. But a fuse isn't going to protect you from a voltage spike and you aren't all of a sudden going to get huge amperage spike and blow your amp. And a fuse certainly isn't going to protect your amp from a low voltage situation which is the downfall of probably 99% of "blown" amps.
You think the fuses in your house are there to protect the light bulbs?
and why wouldn't it? you do know as voltage drops, amperage increasesQuote:
Originally Posted by TaylorFade
You're missing the point, if you get a direct short, the fuse blows instead of the wire catching on fire and burning your car to ashes.Quote:
Originally Posted by jhayar251987
Uhh... I = V/R?Quote:
Originally Posted by dumpbeast86
A decrease in voltage decreases current if all other factors remain constant. What factor do you reckon is changing? Resistance? Please explain.
Couldnt have said it betterQuote:
Originally Posted by TaylorFade
You are making a correlation that is completely install dependent. One does not always go hand in hand with the other.Quote:
Originally Posted by dumpbeast86
Your example only holds true if the amps is making the same power at both the higher voltage (low amperage) and lower voltage (high amperage). This is most likely not the case.
Say you are running a stock 100 amp alt. Your wire is fused at 300 amps. Your amp is capable of pulling 200 amps. You will sustain voltage drop without even getting close to the fuse rating (without even taking into consideration my other point below).
And further, fuses are NOTORIOUSLY crappy at blowing at their rating. Most fuses will let through 5x their rating without breaking a sweat. Thus, your 300 amp fuse just turned into a 1000 amp fuse and good luck trying to pop one of those things because of your "low voltage" situation.
T-fade is correct. The fuse is there to protect the wire and car, not your amp.
i have argued with you about electrical before. i'm not gonna argue with you guys though, as i am viewed a "noob" to you and it's a losing battleQuote:
Originally Posted by tommyk90
You posted information without backing it up (again).Quote:
Originally Posted by dumpbeast86
My offer still stands. Prove me (us) wrong and I'll gladly accept that I was wrong.
I gave a detailed example showing that your post was incorrect. You come back with another general "I'm right, you're wrong, and I don't need to prove it" post that once again shows your lack of discussion/debate skills.
Amperage increases when voltage drops IF AND ONLY IF the same power is being produced. That's the bottom line. You can't make such grossly overgeneralized posts and not expect some kind of response.