posted this for you a few weeks ago, guess you did not read it. fusing on page 6. not sure why memphis didn't put dual inputs on that amp, but sounds like you got that figured out
I'm going to agree with @NASTY08IMPALA ;.
Fuses are to protect your CAR. Not your amp. You fuse according to wire size/capacity. If you feel like you are over-fusing for your amp, then by all means, use a smaller one. But a fuse isn't going to protect you from a voltage spike and you aren't all of a sudden going to get huge amperage spike and blow your amp. And a fuse certainly isn't going to protect your amp from a low voltage situation which is the downfall of probably 99% of "blown" amps.
You think the fuses in your house are there to protect the light bulbs?
Your example only holds true if the amps is making the same power at both the higher voltage (low amperage) and lower voltage (high amperage). This is most likely not the case.
Say you are running a stock 100 amp alt. Your wire is fused at 300 amps. Your amp is capable of pulling 200 amps. You will sustain voltage drop without even getting close to the fuse rating (without even taking into consideration my other point below).
And further, fuses are NOTORIOUSLY crappy at blowing at their rating. Most fuses will let through 5x their rating without breaking a sweat. Thus, your 300 amp fuse just turned into a 1000 amp fuse and good luck trying to pop one of those things because of your "low voltage" situation.
T-fade is correct. The fuse is there to protect the wire and car, not your amp.
My offer still stands. Prove me (us) wrong and I'll gladly accept that I was wrong.
I gave a detailed example showing that your post was incorrect. You come back with another general "I'm right, you're wrong, and I don't need to prove it" post that once again shows your lack of discussion/debate skills.
Amperage increases when voltage drops IF AND ONLY IF the same power is being produced. That's the bottom line. You can't make such grossly overgeneralized posts and not expect some kind of response.