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just installed a 600/4. it blows fuses when i crank it up. any ideas?
getting signal from a 3sixty.3. when i change setting on the 3sixty.3 to only have the sub playing and i crank it up, the 600/4 still blows a fuse. ...background info: 3sixty.3 gets 12 volt from the 600/4. could the 3sixty.3 be popping the fuse?
Sounds like the 600/4 has an issue,needs to be repaired.You can take it to a local car audio shop, and get them to test it out for almost no$, or they may do for free,.Most charge very little.Hard to say what and which not being present with the amps in front of me, and seeing the wiring installation/history
What size fuses are popping?
Why do you think its the amp with issuesQuote:
Originally Posted by audiobaun
80 amps ague fuses.Quote:
Originally Posted by hispls
I feel like that when you power it up,and at a min of time it blows a fuse to me seems like the amps power supply on the board has an issue.I WOULD GET BOTH AMPS CHECKED out, and maybe check your wiring,to see if you arent in an ohm load that the amp is not stable in.Just easy enough that you can get the amps checked out to rule them out, then time to check your wiring configurations.ect.Amp may get heated up, and then blow the fuse.Ive had several amps do this in the past.Not saying its the amp 100%, but it could be a possibilityQuote:
Originally Posted by robertoyoung08
It doesnt blow immediately when i give it power. it doesn't blow until i turn up the volume loud.Quote:
Originally Posted by audiobaun
Probably just drawing too much current. If the amp is class A/B you may need to fuse higher. If it is class D you shouldn't be popping 80A fuses.... or if you are the amp is terribly inefficient.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertoyoung08
Class D. The HD series is supposed to be some of the more efficient amps.Quote:
Originally Posted by hispls
Im assuming its something with the settings now, because the amp completely powers up and functions completely perfectly until the volume is rised. JL suggests 50 amp fuses and im blowing 100's so i need to figure it out.
I have bigger class D's on less fuse. Not sure how modern the JL Class D circuit is though. If they haven't changed it since they came out, you could be dealing with a pretty antiquated design?Quote:
Originally Posted by robertoyoung08
Even driven hard I would expect a 100A fuse to pass enough to power a 600W class A/B. Is that 100A fuse to BOTH amps or just the 4 channel?
Quote:
Originally Posted by hispls
Its just on the 4 channel. The HD is old, but its not THAT old, i think.
I emailed JL to see what they say, but probably wont hear from them til tuesday or wed. So in the meantime it would be nice to figure out other possibilities. I went to local shop and the guy said maybe it was a blown speaker that was causing the amp to go over/under impedance and so the fuse was drawing too much current and would cause the fuse to blow. turns out i did have a blown speaker. i disconnected it, but still blew fuses afterwards.
maybe gain is too high?
Really it might just be working as well as it's going to. Assuming 50% efficiency it would be drawing 100A. JL can claim "80%" all they like but I'm willing to wager it'll only see that under very specific conditions.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertoyoung08
any more help on this?
so ive began noticing that the fuse on the 600/4 only burns when i have the bass going as well. i havnt fully tested this, but so far it seems like that is the only time it does blow.
the 600/4 and the sub amp (a jl hd 1200/1) each have their own power cable and their own fuse. but the 1200/1 does not blow its fuse.