Printable View
Pair Lanzar MAXP104D 10" 2400W Peak 4 Ohm Max Series Car Audio Subwoofers Subs 068888877459 | eBay
These would be a better sub CHEAP to buy if wanting to run @1ohm on that amp,CHEAP..These subs hit very hard, and last in a 1.4-1.6 cu ft ported box per sub..Make your ears rattle..Best bang for the buck,from my experience
I have some with less power,and little less expensive,worth every penny..Im running 2-BTS 7150(75x2)bridged @2ohms on four 1k rms old school USA Made Audiobahn subsQuote:
Originally Posted by mcarlos95
Attachment 26536552Attachment 26536553Attachment 26536554
Black n silver amp at the bottom,I think youd love that cyclops, and be in awe with the power, and clean TDH it puts out,and is like a 113 db amp(bet you cant find one those cheaply,if any at all)Great amp @ 4,or 2ohms mono
Meh, look at the classifieds and wait for a good deal to come up on quality equipment. I don't know anything about the sub mentioned above but I;m going to go out on a limb and say no. The AP15001D or the APSM will work well if you are on a budget. If your patient you can get a nice 12 or a set of 10s that will amaze you, all of your friends, and their mamas!
This would be a hell of a sub for you!
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwo...d2-sale-3.html
The american bass is not a bad choice either
American bass x2 over jbl
Got few subs and amps if interested..I'm from sacramento
Ok so bringing this thread back to life....
I really want to go for the JBL MS-12SD. There's a 4 ohm version, and a 2 ohm version of the sub apparently. Which should I buy?
The Audiopipe APSM-1500's price is really close to the 1300. I might as well go for the 1500. Since the rating for it is 500W RMS @ 4 ohms, will I have problems pairing it with the above sub which handles 450W RMS?
My car is already wired for a sub(previous owner). It has the ground cables, audio cable(red+white), blue wire going up to the stereo, and a red(power) cable going from the trunk to the battery. At the end of the red cable where the battery is, it ends with a fuse the owner bought. The cable reaches up to the battery(barely), but will I still need to buy like 6-10 inches more of power wire(going from the end of the fuse to the battery)? How can I even tell if the wire is good enough(or too good) to handle power needed? It's measured in gauges right? How do I tell what kind I have/need?
I appreciate any advise and help. I'm solid on the equipment above unless one doesn't work with the other.
Not sure why you want that JBL price in Ebay $179 not good sub for the price.
2-1/2" Copper voice coil with Kapton former
56 oz. Barium ferrit magnet structure
I know I suggested a Audiopipe amp in my last post, but since that post, I have seen evidence that those amps are not very good, at all. The APSM 2000 was tested and shown to produce only 400 watts rms of unclipped power at 4ohms. I can only imagine what little clean power the smaller amps produce. If I were you and did not mind saving a few $$ for an amp capable of providing years of service, and clean rated output,look to the AQ1200D, American Bass VFL100.1, B2 Quota,etc. for good, solid budget amps.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarlos95
JBL MS Series MS-12SD4 12" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com
D4 if you want to run @1ohm load,D2 if you want to run @2ohm load
I vote american bass, IA, or ssa.. all subs are good, contact @mylows10 ; he will help you out with getting the correct version sub(s), amp, and wiring.. while giving you a killer deal
Id look into SoundStream Rubicon amps for this setup.Reasonably priced, and do rated on power,seems like the JBL sub is what you are set on.JBL have always been quality made products
your first step should be to figure out what wire you have and to learn what your doing. we can persuade you to buy decent stuff but if you set it up incorrectly it will not sound good. next step is will you be able to build a ported box? if not then go sealed.
my guess is you have a cheapy 8 gauge kit from wallmart. Hifonics HFX12D4 (HFX12-D4) 12" Dual 4 ohm Car Subwoofer that sub with an amp to match wont stress the electical system in your car and if you learn to set your gains correctly will sound good in a prefab sealed box or sound VERY nice in a custom ported box.
just my .02 cents. Just an FYI all of us on here do get a little short so dont take it personal. ALSO do it right the first time and read and search for your answers first.