09 Cobalt LT
Headunit -Alpine CDA-9887
Front Stage - PHD FB 6.1 PRO SIX M/B, FB 5.1 m/b, FB 1.1b tweets
Highs amp -Pheonix Gold Xenon 100.4 & 200.4
Sub stage - 2 DC XL D4 12s
Sub amp - DC 5.0K
Electrical - Singer 270 alt, big 3 0/1 & 12g ofc audio technix, 1 C&D 400mr
Deadener - 80 mill Audiotechnix deadener
"Trunk hit hard like Kimbo Slice"
TEAM DC AUDIO
Clarion CX-501 HU
RF Punch 125.2 running
Infinity 6822CF in rear factory location and
Infinity 6832CF in front factory
6 12inch RF HX2's in 13.4 cuft. tuned to 35.5 running off a Popcorn Sounds 4k
240 Amp American Armature Alt
100AH C&D in back Optima Yellow top up front
It doesn't say anywhere in the manual the voltage requirement to make rated, but CEA compliance only requires that it does it at 14.4. Regardless, I think it's a great amp for the money. And I'm only stressing it because it is very often not taken into consideration. Most people with stock alts are lucky to keep there voltage above 13 when driving a 1000+ wrms amp hard enough to get a little loud . Then they get pissed when their subs stink, crying about "dirty power". Some amps will not give you problems when driving it hard at 12 volts, whether they're rated at 12, 13, 14 or not at all. The apsm will, though. Tune it appropriately and its not a problem.
HU: KDC-X994
Front stage: Phd FB 6.1PRO KIT, Active
Sub stage: 1st gen RE XXX 12" w/Fi recone
Highs Amp: Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
Lows Amp: Mmats D300hc
The Rest: AT 60 mil, Optima Redtop underhood and Yellowtop in trunk, Big 3 and front to rear +/- runs in Monster Cable 1/0
"Bailout: Taking a trillion dollars from the people and giving it to the banks so the banks can loan it back to the people, at interest!"

I read it a long time ago, but as I understood the CEA amp power spec it only governs the 4 ohm rating, 14.4v, <1% thd.
So a lot of lower price amps can be CEA-2006 certified and still get away with spec'ing inflated 2/1 ohm ratings.
Not to say AP does.
I installed an ap10001d for my newphew and I've been pretty surprised by it.
edit: yep, no 2/1 ohm regulations: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MOOh23k...ps/cacomp.html
lol @av

APSM's are the holy grail of car audio. Cheap as fuck and does rated.

This may sound bad and ill probly get bashed. but i will take the apsm-1500 over any other 1500rms rated amp. just saying. for most 1500s (sundown, skar etc.) i can buy 3 apsm's for of the others......... all 3 of the amps do rated power..... its a no brainer to me. even if i had the $ for the saz or skar 1500 id buy 2 apsms and run 3k and save some $.
YOUTUBE SEARCH- *BGOWDY31 or BGWDY3131(<-new)* FOR ME & MY WIFEYS DAILY SYSTEMS
MY 95 CHEVY BLAZER~~~~WIFEYS 03 FORD FOCUS SE
1 SUNDOWN ZV3 18 D2(COMING SOON)~~~1 KICKER L7 15 D4
4.76 CUBE 1 8" AEROPORT 41HZ~~~5.6 CUBE L-PORT 42-ISH-HZ
CRESCENDO BC3500 @ 1 OHM~~~KICKER ZX1000.1 @ 2 OHM
DC 220A,4-0GA RUNS,2GA BIG 3,3 DEKAS 105AH EACH~~~STOCK ALT,1-8GA RUN,STOCK YELLOW TOP
147.6-MUSIC AVG 45 SEC(PREVIOUS AMP/SUB)~~~143.8-MUSIC AVG 45 SEC
146.8-LEGAL MUSIC AVG(PREVIOUS AMP/SUB)~~~143.1-LEGAL MUSIC AVG
my apsm1500 is the second audiopipe amp i've had, the first one was the apsm1300. the only thing i didn't like about the first one was that the fan would whine for about 30seconds, then everything was fine. the 1500's fan doesn't have that issue. the 1500 replaced a rft1000bdcp that stayed way to warm, i guess my electrical wasn't up to par, even though i upgraded +/- wire to 0/1 knu kca and did the big 3 in 0/1. again, the 1500 doesn't have that issue. to me, you would be hard pressed to tell a difference by ear. it is well worth the money even at full price, let alone 50 bones.
HU: KDC-X994
Front stage: Phd FB 6.1PRO KIT, Active
Sub stage: 1st gen RE XXX 12" w/Fi recone
Highs Amp: Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
Lows Amp: Mmats D300hc
The Rest: AT 60 mil, Optima Redtop underhood and Yellowtop in trunk, Big 3 and front to rear +/- runs in Monster Cable 1/0
I read that too... And then forgot, lol. Thanks for bringing it up. Explains why my MB quart guts look so much like the brz1700 despite a 300 watt difference in the one ohm rating, too. Also explains how they (AP) are able to rate their amps at <1% distortion @ 1 ohm lol...
Edit. And yes, I would say that AP spec'ing an apsm as being capable of making 1500@1 with thd that low qualifies a being ” inflated”...
HU: KDC-X994
Front stage: Phd FB 6.1PRO KIT, Active
Sub stage: 1st gen RE XXX 12" w/Fi recone
Highs Amp: Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
Lows Amp: Mmats D300hc
The Rest: AT 60 mil, Optima Redtop underhood and Yellowtop in trunk, Big 3 and front to rear +/- runs in Monster Cable 1/0
I recently bought a APSM-1500 to run on my two sa-8 v2's and **** I love the price/performance ratio. The amp gets hot quick, I had mine up to 150f (It was flush to the carpet on rear seat) Well a way around that is to make/buy rubber spacers to go under the feet a 1/4-1/2" should be good. Get plenty of air flow under the amp. Mine doesn't see over 120F now. Protect on these are like 175f just fyi, and I use a laser thermometer in my car to read temps.
what ohm load are you running? i am thinking on replacing my rft212 with those same 8's. what type box/tune you got? don't mean to thread jack.
Headunit - Stock cassette player - Pioneer P9400
Front Stage - Pyle 8 inch subs (1000 watt peak!!) - Polk DB6.5 (about to be CDT 6.5s)
Rear stage - Deleted (stolen) - Deleted
Sub stage - custom built 15 inch sony xplod (5k watt peak!!!) (huge box) - Two SA12's built by Corey
Sub amp - Pyle 8000w peak!! (spl edition) - AQ2200
Electircal - 35 amp alt from ford festiva upgrade, stolen battery, 28 gauge solder coil for my cable - Dual D34 Yellows, 1/0 trystar OFC, 135amp alt
HU: KDC-X994
Front stage: Phd FB 6.1PRO KIT, Active
Sub stage: 1st gen RE XXX 12" w/Fi recone
Highs Amp: Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
Lows Amp: Mmats D300hc
The Rest: AT 60 mil, Optima Redtop underhood and Yellowtop in trunk, Big 3 and front to rear +/- runs in Monster Cable 1/0
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