09 Cobalt LT
Headunit -Alpine CDA-9887
Front Stage - PHD FB 6.1 PRO SIX M/B, FB 5.1 m/b, FB 1.1b tweets
Highs amp -Pheonix Gold Xenon 100.4 & 200.4
Sub stage - 2 DC M2 LVL 5 12s
Sub amp - 2 DC 5.0Ks
Electrical - Singer 270 alt, big 3 0/1 & 12g ofc audio technix, 2 XS d3400s
Deadener - 80 mill Audiotechnix deadener
"Trunk hit hard like Kimbo Slice"
TEAM DC AUDIO
Clarion CX-501 HU
Rockford Fosgate Punch 400-A4 on
Rockford Fosgate T152 5.25 in center console and
Rockford Fosgate T1682 in front factory
Popcorn Sounds 4k on subs
2 Sundown Z v.3 18's in 10.5 cuft. tuned to 45 with port reducer tuned at 34.
240 Amp American Armature Alt
100AH C&D in back Optima Yellow top up front
"Bailout: Taking a trillion dollars from the people and giving it to the banks so the banks can loan it back to the people, at interest!"
So a lot of lower price amps can be CEA-2006 certified and still get away with spec'ing inflated 2/1 ohm ratings.
Not to say AP does.
I installed an ap10001d for my newphew and I've been pretty surprised by it.
edit: yep, no 2/1 ohm regulations: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MOOh23k...ps/cacomp.html
APSM's are the holy grail of car audio. Cheap as fuck and does rated.
This may sound bad and ill probly get bashed. but i will take the apsm-1500 over any other 1500rms rated amp. just saying. for most 1500s (sundown, skar etc.) i can buy 3 apsm's for of the others......... all 3 of the amps do rated power..... its a no brainer to me. even if i had the $ for the saz or skar 1500 id buy 2 apsms and run 3k and save some $.
MY 95 BLAZER~(HIGHEST SCORE 147+DB 30 SEC MUSIC AVG-BB2400 & 1 HDC3-18 W/STOCK ELEC)
2 OBSIDIAN V2 18'S ~ 10 CUBES @ 38HZ ~ SOUNDSTREAM TA1.3000D @ .5
DC 220A ALT ~ 2 AGMS + 1 STOCK BATT ~ 4 RUNS OGA(2 POS & 2 NEG)
WIFEYS 03 FOCUS SE TRUNK SYSTEM ~ 143+DB 30 SEC MUSIC AVG
1 KICKER L7 15 ~ 5.6 CUBE @ 38HZ ~ KICKER ZX1000.1 @ 2 OHM
STOCK ELECTRICAL ~ 1 BATT(YELLOW TOP OPTI) ~ ONLY 6GA WIRE
2010 FCBC 450 STREET 3RD PLACE & 2011 FCBC 450 STREET CHAMPION
TEAM UNRESTRICTED ~ MY YOUTUBE CHANNELS-> *bgowdy31 & bgowdy3131*
my apsm1500 is the second audiopipe amp i've had, the first one was the apsm1300. the only thing i didn't like about the first one was that the fan would whine for about 30seconds, then everything was fine. the 1500's fan doesn't have that issue. the 1500 replaced a rft1000bdcp that stayed way to warm, i guess my electrical wasn't up to par, even though i upgraded +/- wire to 0/1 knu kca and did the big 3 in 0/1. again, the 1500 doesn't have that issue. to me, you would be hard pressed to tell a difference by ear. it is well worth the money even at full price, let alone 50 bones.
Edit. And yes, I would say that AP spec'ing an apsm as being capable of making 1500@1 with thd that low qualifies a being ” inflated”...
I recently bought a APSM-1500 to run on my two sa-8 v2's and **** I love the price/performance ratio. The amp gets hot quick, I had mine up to 150f (It was flush to the carpet on rear seat) Well a way around that is to make/buy rubber spacers to go under the feet a 1/4-1/2" should be good. Get plenty of air flow under the amp. Mine doesn't see over 120F now. Protect on these are like 175f just fyi, and I use a laser thermometer in my car to read temps.
what ohm load are you running? i am thinking on replacing my rft212 with those same 8's. what type box/tune you got? don't mean to thread jack.
Headunit - Stock cassette player - Pioneer P9400
Front Stage - Pyle 8 inch subs (1000 watt peak!!) - Polk DB6.5 (about to be CDT 6.5s)
Rear stage - Deleted (stolen) - Deleted
Sub stage - custom built 15 inch sony xplod (5k watt peak!!!) (huge box) - Two SA12's built by Corey
Sub amp - Pyle 8000w peak!! (spl edition) - AQ2200
Electircal - 35 amp alt from ford festiva upgrade, stolen battery, 28 gauge solder coil for my cable - Dual D34 Yellows, 1/0 trystar OFC, 135amp alt