Is it ok to wire my treo sub down to .5 on this amp
I have the big OEM batt in the rear of my g8 and a 55ah deka
Is it ok to wire my treo sub down to .5 on this amp
I have the big OEM batt in the rear of my g8 and a 55ah deka
Is it ok? Yeah..
Is it safe to wang daily? Naw
I wouldn't do it without a fat *** alternator
Headunit - Stock cassette player - Pioneer P9400
Front Stage - Pyle 8 inch subs (1000 watt peak!!) - Polk DB6.5 (about to be CDT 6.5s)
Rear stage - Deleted (stolen) - Deleted
Sub stage - custom built 15 inch sony xplod (5k watt peak!!!) (huge box) - Two SA12's built by Corey
Sub amp - Pyle 8000w peak!! (spl edition) - AQ2200
Electircal - 35 amp alt from ford festiva upgrade, stolen battery, 28 gauge solder coil for my cable - Dual D34 Yellows, 1/0 trystar OFC, 135amp alt
Car has a 120 amp alt and OEM batt in trunk what if I run the big 100 ah deka ?
I personally think it has nothing to do with batteries but alternator output. Mine is 125 amp stock and I run a BRZ2400 at 2 ohm and its still a little rough on my alt. Even if I had 17 batteries in my trunk, still doesn't change the fact that my alternator only supplies 125 amps.
It's the brutal troof of car audio.. amps over errthang
Headunit - Stock cassette player - Pioneer P9400
Front Stage - Pyle 8 inch subs (1000 watt peak!!) - Polk DB6.5 (about to be CDT 6.5s)
Rear stage - Deleted (stolen) - Deleted
Sub stage - custom built 15 inch sony xplod (5k watt peak!!!) (huge box) - Two SA12's built by Corey
Sub amp - Pyle 8000w peak!! (spl edition) - AQ2200
Electircal - 35 amp alt from ford festiva upgrade, stolen battery, 28 gauge solder coil for my cable - Dual D34 Yellows, 1/0 trystar OFC, 135amp alt
you dont think imp rise would bring it up past 1?
Refs: Dipitydoo, appollyon, bad95gt, revrider1, jwh1598, ampjunkielikeme, deathpenalty18, ssackett, snoopysnooper, corey0928, SPLAudio, Clifff150, CL1CKCLACK, ShawnT, West + more
Just try it.. Feel your subs and amp for heat.. Or test with an IR thermometer (cheaper den FUUUUUUUUUUUUUU)
Headunit - Stock cassette player - Pioneer P9400
Front Stage - Pyle 8 inch subs (1000 watt peak!!) - Polk DB6.5 (about to be CDT 6.5s)
Rear stage - Deleted (stolen) - Deleted
Sub stage - custom built 15 inch sony xplod (5k watt peak!!!) (huge box) - Two SA12's built by Corey
Sub amp - Pyle 8000w peak!! (spl edition) - AQ2200
Electircal - 35 amp alt from ford festiva upgrade, stolen battery, 28 gauge solder coil for my cable - Dual D34 Yellows, 1/0 trystar OFC, 135amp alt
Try it with the gain at a level where it pushes the sub but isn't at full tilt. feel the amp up to see if it is getting hot and make sure it doesn't get too hot. I would assume that you would definately be at over 1ohm though after imp rise with wires and box and stuff.
Refs: Dipitydoo, appollyon, bad95gt, revrider1, jwh1598, ampjunkielikeme, deathpenalty18, ssackett, snoopysnooper, corey0928, SPLAudio, Clifff150, CL1CKCLACK, ShawnT, West + more
If it helps, I ran one of those 1208d (i think that was the model number) at half ohm but it performed perfectly fine, not getting too hot. I was using 14g speaker wire and I'm sure that helped the impedance rise a little, plus the box rise.
Refs: Dipitydoo, appollyon, bad95gt, revrider1, jwh1598, ampjunkielikeme, deathpenalty18, ssackett, snoopysnooper, corey0928, SPLAudio, Clifff150, CL1CKCLACK, ShawnT, West + more
Lolz, is the 8g going all the way to the amp?
Refs: Dipitydoo, appollyon, bad95gt, revrider1, jwh1598, ampjunkielikeme, deathpenalty18, ssackett, snoopysnooper, corey0928, SPLAudio, Clifff150, CL1CKCLACK, ShawnT, West + more
Thats dank.
Same. I ran a bxi1210d at .5 on two type r's and it was fine. I still have it chillen in my closet actually, I beat the **** out of that thing still works fine. And the BRZ line is much stronger, I'm a huge fan.If it helps, I ran one of those 1208d (i think that was the model number) at half ohm but it performed perfectly fine, not getting too hot. I was using 14g speaker wire and I'm sure that helped the impedance rise a little, plus the box rise.
Just haven't felt the need to .5 my brz2400 yet.. maybe when it gets a little warmer out ill change it up, but really I just need to buy another one for the other sub but dont feel like running another set of cable
Headunit - Stock cassette player - Pioneer P9400
Front Stage - Pyle 8 inch subs (1000 watt peak!!) - Polk DB6.5 (about to be CDT 6.5s)
Rear stage - Deleted (stolen) - Deleted
Sub stage - custom built 15 inch sony xplod (5k watt peak!!!) (huge box) - Two SA12's built by Corey
Sub amp - Pyle 8000w peak!! (spl edition) - AQ2200
Electircal - 35 amp alt from ford festiva upgrade, stolen battery, 28 gauge solder coil for my cable - Dual D34 Yellows, 1/0 trystar OFC, 135amp alt
Anyone with me on the alternator though.. Cause if not please enlighten me
Don't get me wrong I have a nice big battery, but I feel that it's pointless adding more unless I upgrade the alternator to at least 200-250 amps first.
Also, of course unless I plan on wanging while my car is off but this is my daily driver not a bass racer. So why the extra fatty batteries?
Headunit - Stock cassette player - Pioneer P9400
Front Stage - Pyle 8 inch subs (1000 watt peak!!) - Polk DB6.5 (about to be CDT 6.5s)
Rear stage - Deleted (stolen) - Deleted
Sub stage - custom built 15 inch sony xplod (5k watt peak!!!) (huge box) - Two SA12's built by Corey
Sub amp - Pyle 8000w peak!! (spl edition) - AQ2200
Electircal - 35 amp alt from ford festiva upgrade, stolen battery, 28 gauge solder coil for my cable - Dual D34 Yellows, 1/0 trystar OFC, 135amp alt
Bookmarks