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    alandandrew's Avatar
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    Icon32 Recommended 4-channel amp?

    Here's my setup:

    - Pioneer AVIC-D3 deck
    - 6.5" Alpine Type-R components up front (SPR-17S)
    - Alpine 5.25" Type-R speakers in the rear (SPR-13C)

    I am leaning against running a sub, so I want to make sure that my speakers are properly powered. I don't want to spend a lot of money, but I want the speakers to be run to their full potential or close to it for a reasonable price. Not just running off the deck.

    To me, a lot of 4 channel amps seem the same or very similar - I'm just looking to max out my setup without going to a sub setup. I'll probably pick something up on eBay or Craigslist in new or lightly used condition. Alpine, JL Audio, etc. preferred.

    Suggestions appreciated!







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    Re: Recommended 4-channel amp?

    I just heard a alphasonik pma4150a alot of people think they are garbabe because of audiobahn but it was crystal clear lots of power and sounded very flat and warm i liked it




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    Re: Recommended 4-channel amp?

    Buy my Orion Xtr 800.4 190 shipped excellent sq and tons of power!



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    Re: Recommended 4-channel amp?

    if i was you id go with a soundstream amp, you might want to look into the "little wonder II" its cheap but effective




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    Re: Recommended 4-channel amp?

    If u can find one i would go with the soundstream van gogh i have the vga320.4 nothing but clean pure sound bells and whistles. looking for the 500.4 but these amps are rare. if not go with the new phoenix gold ti800.4 series or the precision power pc640.4 great reviews from gary springay from pasmag triple darlington output etc... also my buddy has a soundstream ref. 4.920 its a beast but very long hard on the install., thats my christmas present lol...




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    Re: Recommended 4-channel amp?

    Hello from the south! Congrats on putting a sound system in your ride!

    I have been building car audio systems for my cars and trucks ever since I was 16. I am not professing to be the best or a professional mobile audiophile. Classify my knowlege to be about at "educated amatuer", so please understand this is just an opinion.

    There are plenty of hi-powered amps for cheap pricing. Those amplifiers are high powered and may deliver clean sound, reliable use, but sometimes unless your buying a used amp, the reason the higher pricing on most amps is because of circuitry engineering and design, and also the quality of the build.

    Do yourself a favor and if you need to, save a little longer to get something that won't create such a massive amp draw on your cars charging system. This is why Kicker, RFosgate, infinity, JL or Alpine's are more expensive not necessarily because of marketing costs. They actually just cost more to build.

    Depending on your vehicle the usual amperage output from the alternator for most is between 70-140amps. I know this because for the past 15 years I have been sell autoparts (business to business wholesale). On thing you can count on is all automotive manufactures won't have a alternator that creates amps that are not needed. The higher the output the more technology is needed to keep it working for more then just a year. BMW has watercooled alternators because they are running over 150 amps. So just getting a alternator modified doesn't mean you will have a unit that will last years or continue on if you decide to sell your ride. Basically leaving a problem for another soul to take care of.

    I am also in the market for a 4channel amp to drive my door speakers.

    I reviewed a Lanzar units and to achieve over 3000W of clean power the amp. draw was 400+ amp draw. Most wiring kits have a 100amp fuse. Speaking for myself, I would only a be ticked off person if I was replacing fuses all the time, and not getting my money's worth.

    I am currently running two 1000w Dclass 2ch kenwoods. One to drive a 12" solo. sub and the other to run the door speakers. Clean I maybe get 500W(bridged) for the sub and 175W unbridged per channel for the doors.

    At a volume that would have most people looking for a door handle or clutching at their ears, the amp draw is around 30 and capable of reaching 60, which is the limits of the kenwood built in fuse.

    Don't get too dazzled by big numbers, and understand your hearing limitations and also the limitations of the charging system in your car.

    Don't forget to spend the money on a decent wiring kit. 0/1 gauge to a distribution block and a capacitor. Rule of thumb 1farad per 1000 peak wattage. I am running a tsunami 20 farad hybrid cap. This cap shows both voltage and amp draw...so thats how I know the draw.

    So my next move is a P500.4 Fosgate. Then most likely something like a P500 mono for the sub. I am convinced kicker makes the best valued speakers in the industry and when applied properly, RockFord Fosgate amps are the amp to buy. I hope this info helps. Good luck and if your anything like me, the right sound in your ride is paramount to your existence!!




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    Re: Recommended 4-channel amp?

    Quote Originally Posted by kickerfan73 View Post
    Hello from the south! Congrats on putting a sound system in your ride!

    I have been building car audio systems for my cars and trucks ever since I was 16. I am not professing to be the best or a professional mobile audiophile. Classify my knowlege to be about at "educated amatuer", so please understand this is just an opinion.

    There are plenty of hi-powered amps for cheap pricing. Those amplifiers are high powered and may deliver clean sound, reliable use, but sometimes unless your buying a used amp, the reason the higher pricing on most amps is because of circuitry engineering and design, and also the quality of the build.

    Do yourself a favor and if you need to, save a little longer to get something that won't create such a massive amp draw on your cars charging system. This is why Kicker, RFosgate, infinity, JL or Alpine's are more expensive not necessarily because of marketing costs. They actually just cost more to build.

    Depending on your vehicle the usual amperage output from the alternator for most is between 70-140amps. I know this because for the past 15 years I have been sell autoparts (business to business wholesale). On thing you can count on is all automotive manufactures won't have a alternator that creates amps that are not needed. The higher the output the more technology is needed to keep it working for more then just a year. BMW has watercooled alternators because they are running over 150 amps. So just getting a alternator modified doesn't mean you will have a unit that will last years or continue on if you decide to sell your ride. Basically leaving a problem for another soul to take care of.

    I am also in the market for a 4channel amp to drive my door speakers.

    I reviewed a Lanzar units and to achieve over 3000W of clean power the amp. draw was 400+ amp draw. Most wiring kits have a 100amp fuse. Speaking for myself, I would only a be ticked off person if I was replacing fuses all the time, and not getting my money's worth.

    I am currently running two 1000w Dclass 2ch kenwoods. One to drive a 12" solo. sub and the other to run the door speakers. Clean I maybe get 500W(bridged) for the sub and 175W unbridged per channel for the doors.

    At a volume that would have most people looking for a door handle or clutching at their ears, the amp draw is around 30 and capable of reaching 60, which is the limits of the kenwood built in fuse.

    Don't get too dazzled by big numbers, and understand your hearing limitations and also the limitations of the charging system in your car.

    Don't forget to spend the money on a decent wiring kit. 0/1 gauge to a distribution block and a capacitor. Rule of thumb 1farad per 1000 peak wattage. I am running a tsunami 20 farad hybrid cap. This cap shows both voltage and amp draw...so thats how I know the draw.

    So my next move is a P500.4 Fosgate. Then most likely something like a P500 mono for the sub. I am convinced kicker makes the best valued speakers in the industry and when applied properly, RockFord Fosgate amps are the amp to buy. I hope this info helps. Good luck and if your anything like me, the right sound in your ride is paramount to your existence!!
    Yea but why do you think sq manufacturs still produce amps in an ab class. Like audison, hertz, and focal there amps are rated some of the best sq amps on the market but they have a large draw and are alot cleaner than a d class alpine amp. He's looking for a single 4 channel amp because hes not going to be running subs. So yes a d class is going to be cheeper but hes going to get better sq out of a ab. it all depends on price range is your constricted on price do a d class. but if you can find a good deal on a ab class amp do it because the draw out of a single 4 channel ab class amp wont be eneugh to kill an alternator or battery. ( hopefully) lol



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  8. #8
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    Re: Recommended 4-channel amp?

    rockford fosgate t400-4




  9. #9
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    Re: Recommended 4-channel amp?

    Quote Originally Posted by kickerfan73 View Post
    Hello from the south! Congrats on putting a sound system in your ride!

    I have been building car audio systems for my cars and trucks ever since I was 16. I am not professing to be the best or a professional mobile audiophile. Classify my knowlege to be about at "educated amatuer", so please understand this is just an opinion.

    There are plenty of hi-powered amps for cheap pricing. Those amplifiers are high powered and may deliver clean sound, reliable use, but sometimes unless your buying a used amp, the reason the higher pricing on most amps is because of circuitry engineering and design, and also the quality of the build.

    Do yourself a favor and if you need to, save a little longer to get something that won't create such a massive amp draw on your cars charging system. This is why Kicker, RFosgate, infinity, JL or Alpine's are more expensive not necessarily because of marketing costs. They actually just cost more to build.

    Depending on your vehicle the usual amperage output from the alternator for most is between 70-140amps. I know this because for the past 15 years I have been sell autoparts (business to business wholesale). On thing you can count on is all automotive manufactures won't have a alternator that creates amps that are not needed. The higher the output the more technology is needed to keep it working for more then just a year. BMW has watercooled alternators because they are running over 150 amps. So just getting a alternator modified doesn't mean you will have a unit that will last years or continue on if you decide to sell your ride. Basically leaving a problem for another soul to take care of.

    I am also in the market for a 4channel amp to drive my door speakers.

    I reviewed a Lanzar units and to achieve over 3000W of clean power the amp. draw was 400+ amp draw. Most wiring kits have a 100amp fuse. Speaking for myself, I would only a be ticked off person if I was replacing fuses all the time, and not getting my money's worth.

    I am currently running two 1000w Dclass 2ch kenwoods. One to drive a 12" solo. sub and the other to run the door speakers. Clean I maybe get 500W(bridged) for the sub and 175W unbridged per channel for the doors.

    At a volume that would have most people looking for a door handle or clutching at their ears, the amp draw is around 30 and capable of reaching 60, which is the limits of the kenwood built in fuse.

    Don't get too dazzled by big numbers, and understand your hearing limitations and also the limitations of the charging system in your car.

    Don't forget to spend the money on a decent wiring kit. 0/1 gauge to a distribution block and a capacitor. Rule of thumb 1farad per 1000 peak wattage. I am running a tsunami 20 farad hybrid cap. This cap shows both voltage and amp draw...so thats how I know the draw.

    So my next move is a P500.4 Fosgate. Then most likely something like a P500 mono for the sub. I am convinced kicker makes the best valued speakers in the industry and when applied properly, RockFord Fosgate amps are the amp to buy. I hope this info helps. Good luck and if your anything like me, the right sound in your ride is paramount to your existence!!
    Hmm so 8 days later and no one cheap shots em about suggesting to buy a cap?

    Ne ways +1 on the rockford. Personally im getting audiopipe comps and a 4 channel audiopipe amp. I like audiopipe...what can I say? Lol. Got a AP30001d watt amp hooked up to 4 RE 10s. So yea!




  10. #10
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    Re: Recommended 4-channel amp?

    buy my kenwood does 60x4ch at 4 ohm perfect for your set up. 80 shipped to your door. pm me if your interested




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    Re: Recommended 4-channel amp?

    Quote Originally Posted by Lonnie View Post
    Hmm so 8 days later and no one cheap shots em about suggesting to buy a cap?

    Ne ways +1 on the rockford. Personally im getting audiopipe comps and a 4 channel audiopipe amp. I like audiopipe...what can I say? Lol. Got a AP30001d watt amp hooked up to 4 RE 10s. So yea!
    AND a cap does nothing! except protect from the dreaded "head light dim" haha there 8 days later An extra battery is alott better.



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    Re: Recommended 4-channel amp?

    Infinity 4-ch does 75rms@4 or 90@ 2 underrated amp! Like Bran New! PM if interested..




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    Re: Recommended 4-channel amp?

    Since this turned into a WTB thread I have the perfect amp. Old school, near mint condition, Eclipse EA3532. Its a selectable 4/5 channel amp, very under rated, and pure SQ. If you desire you can switch to a low powered single sub setup in the future. $130 shipped.



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