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Reload Thread: Remote turn on Wire

  1. #1
    namster44's Avatar
    namster44 is offline Great White North



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    Remote turn on Wire

    I got a two amps, and I was wondering if I really need two remote turn on wires...aka one for each amp. Could I just wire one, and then have another shorter wire run from one amp to the other? One amp is for the subs, and the other for comps...how could I make a switch for the sub amp while still running the comp amp?



    This years line up.....

    *eD, Tsunami, CDT, Alpine, EFX wiring/block/fuses*




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    Aurorav8's Avatar
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    Yeah, you can just run a shorter remote wire from one amp to the other.




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    namster44's Avatar
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    figured so, but I still need to find a way to work the comp amp without the sub amp working, maybe this will work....

    HU
    |
    | <---remote wire
    [spilter]
    | |
    | |
    [Switch] |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    [sub amp] [comp amp]


    wonder what radio shack has got in stock....



    This years line up.....

    *eD, Tsunami, CDT, Alpine, EFX wiring/block/fuses*

  4. #4
    Aurorav8's Avatar
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    A switch should work, but why wouldn't you want your sub amp working?




  5. #5
    DaBaller504's Avatar
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    yah

    Why wouldn't you want it turned on????



    1995 Chevy Silverado, K1500 With 350 Cubic Inches of Raw Power.

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    namster44's Avatar
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    Basically so I can have control so I can bump responsibly and stuff. I will be running a pair of eD 15As, so I imagine they will get freaking loud and sometimes it's not a good idea to be running around will all that bass. Hopefully...hopefully my CDT comps and mid bass drivers in the rear will be enough to hold me over when the subs are hammering away.



    This years line up.....

    *eD, Tsunami, CDT, Alpine, EFX wiring/block/fuses*

  7. #7
    namster44's Avatar
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    Edit : "aren't hammering away...." not are



    This years line up.....

    *eD, Tsunami, CDT, Alpine, EFX wiring/block/fuses*

  8. #8
    DaBaller504's Avatar
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    ok

    I see what your looking for. Just keep the volume down. A lil bass and still have that is evened out with your mids and highs.



    1995 Chevy Silverado, K1500 With 350 Cubic Inches of Raw Power.

  9. #9
    burtonsnow83's Avatar
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    Originally posted by namster44
    figured so, but I still need to find a way to work the comp amp without the sub amp working, maybe this will work....

    HU
    |
    | <---remote wire
    [spilter]
    | |
    | |
    [Switch] |
    | |
    | |
    | |
    [sub amp] [comp amp]


    wonder what radio shack has got in stock....
    ]


    where are you getting the switch?



    http://www.sounddomain.com/id/burtonsnow83

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    wiring-knukonceptz


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  10. #10
    namster44's Avatar
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    just some place that sells all sorts of these switches, DIY electronic parts/kits...crap like that



    This years line up.....

    *eD, Tsunami, CDT, Alpine, EFX wiring/block/fuses*

  11. #11
    Rockman's Avatar
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    Why not just use the subwoofer level control in your HU? It does have one doesn't it???



    Car 99 Toyota Solara SLE V6

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  12. #12
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    After listenign to systems with subs, I dont' think the switch will EVER come into play after two tries.

    I also don't think your components will give you the bass you require even at reaonsable levels, if the xover points are correct. You don't hear anything below 80 or 100Hz (your sub's low pass point)

    TO boom responsibly, keep volume down and use plenty of dmaping materials to try and keep noise confined in the cabin,

    As rockman says, use your hu to lower the volume of your subs if need be.



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    Bass drive-by's are uncool.

  13. #13
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    I have a switch wired on my opti 1000.1D remote so I can switch it off and still use my 200.2.

    Why?

    Because I listen to a lot of sports talk on AM radio and the class D circuitry causes a TON of interference. With my sub amp on I can't pick up a thing, switch it off and I get crystal clear reception.




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