sorry guys but i can't search for this

[marauder]

i want an amp (preferably 1 amp) to drive two RFP3212's (400w RMS 800 peak) subs. i would do a search but i get this stupid not enough letters error every time i search so i'm breaking the cardinal rule and asking again.


long story short
i've looked at several amps that all advertise 400Wx2 RMS but i just don't trust those values when the amp is only 300-350 bux. am i being paranoid or is amp advertising like every other product. (ex ham radios) when i buy a new ham radio they advertise 200 watts but it really only means 200w peak which is like 130w RMS. i fully understand the RMS/peak theory and am wanting an amp to most efectively push what i've got.


thanks and sorry for the book.

[Randy Savage]

Originally posted by marauder
i want an amp (preferably 1 amp) to drive two RFP3212's (400w RMS 800 peak) subs. i would do a search but i get this stupid not enough letters error every time i search so i'm breaking the cardinal rule and asking again.


long story short
i've looked at several amps that all advertise 400Wx2 RMS but i just don't trust those values when the amp is only 300-350 bux. am i being paranoid or is amp advertising like every other product. (ex ham radios) when i buy a new ham radio they advertise 200 watts but it really only means 200w peak which is like 130w RMS. i fully understand the RMS/peak theory and am wanting an amp to most efectively push what i've got.


thanks and sorry for the book.

$300-350 is a lot for a 800 watt amp....

what amps have you looked at thus far?

[paikiah]

Originally posted by marauder
i want an amp (preferably 1 amp) to drive two RFP3212's (400w RMS 800 peak) subs. i would do a search but i get this stupid not enough letters error every time i search so i'm breaking the cardinal rule and asking again.


long story short
i've looked at several amps that all advertise 400Wx2 RMS but i just don't trust those values when the amp is only 300-350 bux. am i being paranoid or is amp advertising like every other product. (ex ham radios) when i buy a new ham radio they advertise 200 watts but it really only means 200w peak which is like 130w RMS. i fully understand the RMS/peak theory and am wanting an amp to most efectively push what i've got.


thanks and sorry for the book.

unlike ham radios, car audio amps by respected mftrs are UNDER rated, so if you get something like a JBL 1200w amp, it actually produces 1300w RMS and over.

You're looking for a 800w@2ohm mono amp. If it were me, I'd look for maybe a 2 channel 200w amp that can drop to 2ohm mono stable. It'll probably give out at least 600w RMS or maybe slightly more. A monoblock D class amp will draw less current, and at 800 watts, I think I'd take class D. So ask for "a monoblock 800w RMS amp, with a max budget of $$$$."

You can also have a bit more than the power rating of the subs. Rockfords are known to take a bit more than advertised.

I'd like to help you more, but I don't know the prices of stuff in the US. Oh, excpet JBL's cause I was about to order them.

The subs might be alright with 300w RMS each, so maybe a JBL 600.1? It drops to 1ohm mono and it would probably put out more than 600watts, so your subs would get at least 325watts. Price is around $200. JBL monoblocks don't have subsonic filters, but it is arguably the most bang for buck.

[fantomas]

meh ...to search for something shorter than 4 letters...use a "*" after the word...like "MTX" would be "MTX*".

with amps...the thing to look out for is if the manufacturer overrates or underrates the wattage. using mtx as an example again..the thunder81000D puts out a rated 1500wrms at 2 ohms. however, the birthsheet might say something like 1700 wrms. now, a company like pyle, would probably put out less than rated.

you'll probably want something thats 1 ohm stable...or that can give you 600-800 watts at 4 ohms since those subs are 4ohm dvc.

[marauder]

i've really seriously looked at these two amps so far

http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/CRUV2800

and

Power 750S from RF
the site on the 2nd one was down so i can't get a link to it.

[Randy Savage]

Originally posted by marauder
i've really seriously looked at these two amps so far

http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/CRUV2800

and

Power 750S from RF
the site on the 2nd one was down so i can't get a link to it.

Take a look at the US Acoustics amps at www.thezeb.com - They are great amps that are really low in price.

also, check out the Soundstream amps on www.etronics.com - these amps are awesome, I love them...

[marauder]

Originally posted by fantomas
meh ...to search for something shorter than 4 letters...use a "*" after the word...like "MTX" would be "MTX*".

with amps...the thing to look out for is if the manufacturer overrates or underrates the wattage. using mtx as an example again..the thunder81000D puts out a rated 1500wrms at 2 ohms. however, the birthsheet might say something like 1700 wrms. now, a company like pyle, would probably put out less than rated.

you'll probably want something thats 1 ohm stable...or that can give you 600-800 watts at 4 ohms since those subs are 4ohm dvc.

thanks i'll keep that in mind next time i search. yeah i'd like to get something in the 2ohm stable range even tho the subs are 4ohm DVC i can wire them to be 2 ohm each. and if anything i can build a pie T tuner and get whatever impeadeance match i want but that sux to have to do it it eats too much power like that. 2 or 4 ohms is good i'm just afraid that if i order something and it comes in and it's not what i want or can use then i'm screwed royaly.

[marauder]

this is pretty much what i'm afraid of.
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?...=rocamp4224rtx

i've read some good things about these amps and that's a really good price but it seems awfully cheap to be able to do what they are advertising it to do.


man i'm confused. LOL

thanks for your help guys i'm really kinda new to the whole system thing and really want to feel my music and have it loud too.

[Randy Savage]

Originally posted by marauder
this is pretty much what i'm afraid of.
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?...=rocamp4224rtx

i've read some good things about these amps and that's a really good price but it seems awfully cheap to be able to do what they are advertising it to do.


man i'm confused. LOL

thanks for your help guys i'm really kinda new to the whole system thing and really want to feel my music and have it loud too.

Well, you should be afraid of Rockwood, lol. They are horrible.

anyway, like I said, US Acoustics and soundstream make some awesome amps that are affordable.

[marauder]

LOL good at least im in the right direction. ok man i'll look into those and see what i like the best and hopefully pick one up soon.

thanks for the input guys you rock.

[Randy Savage]

Originally posted by marauder
LOL good at least im in the right direction. ok man i'll look into those and see what i like the best and hopefully pick one up soon.

thanks for the input guys you rock.

Pick out a few that you see and like, and just post them here, we'll tell ya which ones are good and which to stay away from.

[fantomas]

Bridged RMS Power: 600W x 1 @ 2 ohms. im pretty sure thats at 12.9 volts. most cars run at 14.4 volts (while on) so the wattage will be higher. and its 600 x 1 so you would need to get the 1 ohm load (4 x 4ohm dvc in parrallel) to 2 ohms....

im just curious how you would do that...? i would think that if you would put in another 4 4 ohm resistors (into parrallel to eachother, than series to the subs) you would cut the power in half. is that how you do it?

and as snova said, if you're ever unsure of something, just ask.

i dont mind answering the same questions over and over again...

[paikiah]

Originally posted by fantomas
Bridged RMS Power: 600W x 1 @ 2 ohms. im pretty sure thats at 12.9 volts. most cars run at 14.4 volts (while on) so the wattage will be higher. and its 600 x 1 so you would need to get the 1 ohm load (4 x 4ohm dvc in parrallel) to 2 ohms....

im just curious how you would do that...? i would think that if you would put in another 4 4 ohm resistors (into parrallel to eachother, than series to the subs) you would cut the power in half. is that how you do it?

and as snova said, if you're ever unsure of something, just ask.

i dont mind answering the same questions over and over again...

Isn't the alt 14.4V and in reality, it's only at about 13.8V? during idle, and when the bass hits, it goes down even lower..dimmage, like Gsteg says

[fantomas]

Originally posted by paikiah
Isn't the alt 14.4V and in reality, it's only at about 13.8V? during idle, and when the bass hits, it goes down even lower..dimmage, like Gsteg says

i suppose..lol. 13.8 is still higher than 12.8. and the higher the rpm, the higher the voltage...up to 14.4 i guess.

[marauder]

Originally posted by fantomas
Bridged RMS Power: 600W x 1 @ 2 ohms. im pretty sure thats at 12.9 volts. most cars run at 14.4 volts (while on) so the wattage will be higher. and its 600 x 1 so you would need to get the 1 ohm load (4 x 4ohm dvc in parrallel) to 2 ohms....

im just curious how you would do that...? i would think that if you would put in another 4 4 ohm resistors (into parrallel to eachother, than series to the subs) you would cut the power in half. is that how you do it?

and as snova said, if you're ever unsure of something, just ask.

i dont mind answering the same questions over and over again...

here's a question i have for ya.
if i have an amp that says ohh lets say 600 watts. it only has a 20a fuse. to me this is a little hard to believe because when you do the math even at 13.8 v it's no where near that. (13.8v X 20a = 276w RMS) now lets turn RMS into PEP (peak) power. 276 X 1.404 = 387.5w far below the advertised 600w. now this is how i would do it is there something special about stereo amps that i don't know about or is this just fishy.