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    Audiobahn AW1208Q dual 2ohm subs... amps? Major thumpin'

    Ok, I have four Audiobahn AW1208Q (1500rms rating) dual 2-ohm subs. I plan to run each of them in a ported 3 cubic foot box tuned to 37hertz. In my Accord, I was thinking of running either one or two of them.

    My question is what amps should I run? One amp per? Should I try and run the amps at 1-ohm to get the highest power? I am going to run a high output alternator, a spare battery and at least a 15 farad cap, so power is not a problem.

    I've considered the A2300HCQ, but I'm really not sure. Do the high current amps make a considerably larger amount of power with more input voltage?

    Or should I look into class D amps?

    I would like to really crank and these subs can take it, so let's hear your suggestions.



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    1. You dont have to get that 15 farad cap
    2. 4 dual ohm subs can be either 1 ohm or 4ohms
    3. HC amps do draw power, D class is always better (for subs)
    4. That amp will be fine (if its rated @ 1ohm...)
    5. Check out these amps...http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/audiobahn_specials.html
    6. Get either A2200HCX x2 or A1500HCX x2
    5. See if you can get any deals on the Audiobahn D class amps...

    EDIT: When I say forget about that cap, invest in a few opts, and a HO alt...



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    Originally posted by Woodmister
    1. You dont have to get that 15 farad cap
    2. 4 dual ohm subs can be either 1 ohm or 4ohms
    3. HC amps do draw power, D class is always better (for subs)
    4. That amp will be fine (if its rated @ 1ohm...)
    5. Check out these amps...http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/audiobahn_specials.html
    6. Get either A2200HCX x2 or A1500HCX x2
    5. See if you can get any deals on the Audiobahn D class amps...

    EDIT: When I say forget about that cap, invest in a few opts, and a HO alt...
    Running one HC amp would get me in at .5-ohm(won't work) or 2-ohm in bridged operation with 2 subs I would have 1-ohm or 4-ohm bridged. Which is better?

    With a D-class amp per sub, I could get a 1-ohm load with only one sub. This is looking like my best option.

    Why the A2200HCX x2 or A1500HCX x2? Would be .5-ohm bridged on the A2200, I do like looks of the A1500 though...

    Basically, I'm really looking to find out what the best ohm draw is for an amp in terms of performance and quality...

    What are opts?

    Why are D-class amps better than HC amps for subs?



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    whats your price range to spend because it seems like you will need one big amp or four smaller ones.



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    Theres not a "better" way to run subs...Its just which way will work, and which one gives me the most power, without going overboard...Opts = Optima Batteries (the best to run with any system, yellow tops are used for car audio...

    Now on with D class, I have heard many, ridiculous definitions for class D topologies. I’ve heard people say, of course, that D stands for digital or even that the class is like a report card grade; A is the best type of amp, B is the second best, and so forth. These people must not know that topologies go far beyond the F grade... Actually, D just means 4. A was the first type of amp recognized by the IEEE, a group of professional electronic engineers. B was second, C was third, D was fourth, blah blah blah blah... Truth is, there is no such thing as a digital amplifier! If digital information is written in 1s and 0s, then what would a digital amp do? That’s right, make big ones and zeros ; )

    Class D technology is growing in the 12 Volt industry. There are a few companies producing these amps and I suspect a few more companies will jump on the wagon for good reasons. The main reason is for dramatically increased efficiency. This is done by "Switching" and is therefore a "switching amplifier" as compared to a non-switching amplifier like a class A amplifier.

    A class D amp can be more than 80% efficient while a Class A/B (which most amps are) will fall into the 50-60% range. Let’s say we have two identical vehicles and we are going to put a class A/B sub amp into one of the vehicles and a class D into the other. Both amps, for comparison put out 1,000 watts RMS with 12 Volts. The vehicle with the class A/B amp will draw approximately 160 amperes of current and , being 50% efficient, will put out 1,000 watts of heat into the heat sink! Bummer, huh! The class D amp will only draw around 98 amperes to yield the same 1,000 watts RMS output. Not only will your vehicle like you better for not draining the power supply, but the amp will like you better as well because now you will only produce about 175 watts of heat into the class D heatsink! For you tweakers, that’s 40% less current draw and 82% less heat for the heatsink dissipate...

    Class D is great for bigger sub amps only as the benefits do not outweigh the cost for a smaller amp. So, why don't people make a class D amp to play 20Hz to 20kHz?! Not a simple answer, but here goes... The audio signal is used to modulate the shape of the square-looking waves of high frequencies. Then the high frequencies are eliminated, leaving audio output. The type of modulation used is called Pulse-width Modulation, or PWM. PWM, like the power supply in many car audio amps is used. Truth is, a PWM power supply as an amp that has DC output only. If you want to play 20kHz you would have to have the output devices switch at hundreds of kHz which almost reaches the AM radio frequencies. You see, the Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) wave frequency must be a lot higher than the desired playing frequency. To play 500Hz, we only need to switch at a frequency around 60kHz.

    In summation, class D amps put out more power and less heat with less current consumption. But as for now, they are only beneficial as larger subwoofer amplifiers.



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    Awesome Answer!

    I am running an Optima Red-top up front in my car and currently running one Yellow-top in the rear for the amps. I have a 140amp output alternator and also have 0-gauge wire for both positive and negative sides, running into large distribution blocks and then a short run (less than 18 inches) of 4-gauge to the amps. I was considering having additional Yellow-tops if necessary. I'm hoping I'm ok, in the power area though. I am also running an Audio Control Matrix for pre-amp signal matching/boosting and high quality RCA inter-connnect cables.

    I'm basically torn between the Audiobahn A1500HCX HC amps and the A18001D amps.

    Obviously the A1500HCX has more power output and is cheaper making it slightly more interesting.

    At this point, I've decided that no matter what I'm going to run one mono block amp to each sub, no matter how many I decide to use.

    I've also heard that the HC A/B amps typically have more loosely regulated power supplies and therefor will make loads more power given additional input. Where as a D-class amp will see little or no gains because of it's switching type power supply. Any thoughts?



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    make sure your alternator can handle all of this.....how many amps is your alt? because a stock alternator wont be able to handle that for daily driving....

    -nate




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    thanks for all the info guys. Everything always helps.



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