You get what you pay for
I really don't want to say anything bad about any brand or system, but you have to remember that you get what you pay for: I would be leary about any company that only tells you how much power their amp has. Maximum power, without any other specs, really doesn't tell you anything. You could hook a battery charger to a resistor and measure power (watts)...but would that sound good at all? Look at a more reputable manufacturer that will back up the power ratings with some specs: Power Output at what distortion? What is the damping factor of the amp? What is the frequency response?
Not to name any names, and remembering that we all had to start somewhere: Look into an affordable Kicker, Rockford, Alpine...or other name brands. I have an old Kicker amp that is only a 30 watt per channel amp, but in the right system with the right subs, I was able to hit 135 DB. Not bad for 30 watts a channel and a pair of 15's.
So...remember, you get what you pay for...
1990 Nissan Maxima **SOLD**
Nakamichi Mobile CD Tuner One
Nakamichi CD Changer
Namamichi Digital to Analog Converter
Behringer Ultra-Curve PRO-DSP8024 Equalizer
Audio Control ESP-II
Audio Control Epicenter
Ashley XR-4001 4-way crossover
(2) Zapco Z400C2 Amplifiers
(1 pr) MB Quart Referenz Components
(2) JL Audio 8W1 Mid-bass
(4) JL Audio 10W0 Subwoofers