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Reload Thread: I need some help with purchasing an amp.

  1. #16
    audiolife's Avatar
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    welp what most do in spl set ups is figure the sweet spot in the resinant frequancy of their vehicle... then pick a slightly higher tuning port...higher the freq the easier it is to produce the wave loudly.....am i correct? then lets just get propper distance for the subs to cut down on phaseshift loss (being it even down to 1/4 wave distance or less) brace and seal every thing getting air tight and achieve the best space in your vehicle to push as much air as you could... then take the mackest sub you can get with 50 batteries and 20 of the baddest amps you want...fact is if the subs are less likely to go to that "magic" impedence" then you will be losing power. you can argue with me until you are blue in the face about this and you will be wrong only because of the point of which this falls...the scenerio? this was chris norris's van in 2001. (45 batteries and 18 amps) he had 3 sets of shocker subs he could have put in..........he had the mack daddies the almost mack daddy and then a total step down sub....what do you think he used? ehehe going by nominal readings the fat subs would have been better. alot better..........but guess what? that was about 3 db off what the smaller sub was doing... now there are other factors in this but the reactive power was the biggest factor...the smaller sub was in the "power zone" of the amp..(other factor was the bigger nominally rated sub also fell apart after 2 test runs...) i can also think of another sub of older times..sound stream spl series.. spl 160 vs. spl 15's ...............................needless to say team stream used the spl 15 because it was more efficent. they had more than enough power to do either sub in any case. and i wont disprove the median point you were making about nominal yes it is the starting point but that is it its the equivilant to a car doing a burn out off the starting line from a "resting" position but after that you can throw it out the window.







  2. #17
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    so are you saying an amp can not be optimized to put power into any load?or just the lower the impedence the more power? ehehe now i am asking you the same question you are asking me




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    lets see you have a givin rating the amp has nominally usually 4 ohms...you change that 4 ohm load the power rating goes alot higher....(i used it to stay linear not spl)<<cheater amp..meant a little more when they had more classes in iasca/usac sound offs but can still be a factor




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    I won't argue that bass can be set up in a way to get very loud in a given vehicle w/less power than a different vehicle. I'm clueless as to resonant frequency adjustments. All I'm saying is that amp x that is rated to put out max power at 2 ohms will not put out the same power at 4 ohms.




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    point i am making is sometimes they can put out more at 2 ohms or sometimes they can put out more into 4 ohms ....its easier to build an amp that "easily fits a one sided ohms law theory" than it is to use ohms law and opimize an amp to do one specific purpose. look at last months car audio mag with the amp test. i think you will see what i am digging at..and until manufacters use a "standard" testing method or simply standardize their specs...reading their adds and manuals to "gain"knowledge" about a certain amp's specs will always be a hoot-n-a-hollar and the above so forth mentioned that you replied to had less to do with "tuning frequency" than you think. simply put you cant look at one desired aspect of anything especially in electronics. there will always be trade offs pro and con. fact is if anyone made anything close to perfect we all would never debate now would we?
    Last edited by audiolife; 02-19-2002 at 02:28 PM.




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    LOL AT N2AUDIO GOING TO OTHER BOARDS TO GET KNOWLEDGE TO FIGHT WITH HEHEHE TO FUNNY BUT FOR ALL YOUR EAGERNESS BEST THING U GOT WAS I WAS AT LEAST PARTLY RIGHT LOLOL WHEN I KNOW I AM RIGHT. AGAIN I AGREED WHAT YOU SAID ABOUT THE NOMINAL..I NEVER DISAGREED...BUT AFTER THE START OF PLAYING IT MEANS LITTLE AND IT IS THE DIFFERENCE IN AMP PERFORMANCES AT AN "SPL" LEVEL....I WILL LET YOU KNOW SOMETHING I AM FAR FROM RETARDED OR BEING A NEWBIE AND I HAVE SPENT MANY A STUPID HOUR FIGURING WHAT I LEARNED IN EET AND APPLING IT TO AUDIO. EVERYTHING FROM PYSICS TO OHMS LAW..... NOW I AM NOT SAYING I KNOW ALL ...BUT I KNOW WHAT I KNOW ESPECIALLY IF I "MESSED IN IT BEFORE." I DID THIS TO SHOW THAT A HI CURRENT AMP ISNT ALWAYS "THE BEST AMP" AND THAT THERE ARE (ALTHOUGH MINOR TO THE EAR) DIFFERENCES IN AMP OUTPUT EVEN IF THEY ARE RATED RELITIVLY THE SAME. CAN YOU TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 145 DB AND 146.5 WITH YOUR EAR? ANYHOW PEACE OUT AND I HOPE I GAVE YOU SOMETHING DIFFERENT TO THINK ABOUT
    :p



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    The only knowledge I got from carsound reinforced what I already thought. I'm quite sure you're no more knowledgable than I am, however you've perfected the art of b.s. On that I congratulate you.




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    lol you are a hoot guy. you think i am some idiot? i went to college for eet <<if you dont know what that is just drop it and we will both know you dont know anything... plus i was a rep for about a year and i placed at a few iasca regionals.... i had very good teachers..chris norris for 1 and kirk perry for another......... ta ta



    Sony Mobile ES C-90 Audison Bit-One
    Audison LRx 3.1 MT
    Hertz HSK 130
    Mid Bass ?
    DB Drive K5 15
    Kinetik 1400HC
    avital 2200 alarm
    dynamat extreme

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    No, I don't think you're an idiot. I think you have a difficult time explaining yourself clearly. It's great that you went to school for ee tech. I went to school for MEtech. I'm no electronics expert which I've stated over and over. I only argue that if you match your speakers resistance to your amp's and use an enclosure that your subs are spec'd for everything else will take care of itself.

    Most of what I know I learned from reading carsound. That seems to be the most knowledgeable board I've found. People back up their arguements with scientific facts that are easily understood. Maybe I can learn more from you in the future.




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    everything i based my explinations on is simple ohms law if nothing else. simple laws of a given resistance at a specific time was the point i was making and i do believe i gave a few examples and i didnt even read your "what do you call a cheater amp statement until i was done point is you cant say that this works best with that in any given scenerio because it dont work that way..that is the fun of it.. in spl contests some people get lucky some really set out and do it from a know it all scheme. i for one cant figure out the total physics of an spl system but i can tell you what it does and where...car audio magizine said in their latest "how to spl" article that there are factors which physisists cant explain...that is hog wash. just means they dont have or know the "x" factor as in many installs noone knows for sure. h3ll i seen stock grocery carrying dodge caravans do over 150db with a pair of 12's on a nexxus lion amp.....the sub box wasnt a build to type either it just sat all the way in back and was easily carried out of the van to make sure everything wasnt cooked after its burping..... but if you know the x factor or learn it then you can apply it just like tuning frequancies. that article shows you how to do it. thing is if you are going to do the lil burp shows what i stated all the way ^^^^ up there in prior posts would be worth about 3 db at least and in that kind of contest that is an a$$ kicking. it sounds complex but it isnt at all after yo see what happens you just reapply what you already know to be true to it and chances are if you can work a dvm and a spl meter you can make drastic changes in a very short time . Numbers manufacturers throw out at you sound impressive but that is because they are trying to sell themselves and you will never hear them say what is or was the scenerio at which these stats were collected. christ i am an installer at a "major electronics retailer national chain"now lmao and i think its a total waste. all they care about is how fast you do something and they could really care less how good it is put in as long as they don't or cant get sued. they almost call tuning a waste of time but o well when i go out on my own people will want to go to me because i actually care how much they like what they have. that is something an internet stereo shop or a major retailer shop cant and wont provide you. it takes too much time making sure you are truely happy. i would always suggest buying from a smaller retail shop as long as you feel confident with what they are doing, especially if you are a newbie most big set up stores and such have kids selling you stuff that really cant tell their butt from a hole in the ground then they have people there like me that try to make what they say true, that is a pain in the keaster. noone thatt really just cares about money will tell you what you really want to know so sometimes spending more is worth the money plus you learn so you can actually take advantage later on of the net stereo shops and major retailers by getting what you want know what it truely is and get it cheap......................



    Sony Mobile ES C-90 Audison Bit-One
    Audison LRx 3.1 MT
    Hertz HSK 130
    Mid Bass ?
    DB Drive K5 15
    Kinetik 1400HC
    avital 2200 alarm
    dynamat extreme

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