Can someone with an Orion HCCA D1200/D2400/D5000 answer this for me?
I recently bought an Orion HCCA-D2400 and have a possible problem but it might be normal... So I have a question for people that own any of these amps, if they could spare a couple minutes and test this out for me if they get a free minute... To the Orion owners reading this, it's slightly lengthy but I'd really appreciate it if someone could test this out for me on their amp...
First off the amp draws approx. 20mA when it's OFF (as in remote wire de-powered) which is considerably larger than the tenths of milliamps that most other amps draw when they are off. Now 20mA is not really a lot but compared to tenths of mA it is. I'm assuming this is because of the ESP2 feature set (despite me not having a compatible alarm and having it not setup at all). This is not so important but if anyone could do an amp-off current draw test, and see what they get that would be nice.
What I'm more interested in though, is the amp's behaviour when you apply power to it. As in just connecting the +/- connections to the amp from a disconnected state. (Or inserting the fuse or what have you--just providing 12 volts to it from 0 volts/disconnected.)
On my amp what happens when you connect the amp regardless of the remote wire's status is that the amp's top lamp (red Orion logo) immediately illuminates and stays illuminated. The ESP indicator then blinks continuously. The amp will continue doing this indefinitely until the remote wire gets its first power cycling. That is, turning the car/HU on and then off again. Once the remote is powered the amp operates properly, once the remote is powered down, the amp turns off properly.
What I'm concerned about is if this initial connection semi-ON state is normal or if there's a problem with the amp. If I just disconnect the + or - (or remove the fuse) and reconnect it, this happens every time. I emailed DEI about it and the guy said that it "shouldn't be doing that" but for some reason I'm not so sure, especially since the amp appears to operate otherwise.
Anyway again if anyone could try this (just disconnect the power to the amp and then reconnect it and see what the amp does) I'd appreciate it. I don't want to send an amp that's fine in for warranty and have to wait weeks and weeks to get it back when there might not be anything wrong with it.
Thanks in advance...