Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
Maybe when I get a new car I will go to those lengths to soundproof everything. Car's 13+ years old now... just not gonna get enough use out of it I think.
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
West
Maybe when I get a new car I will go to those lengths to soundproof everything. Car's 13+ years old now... just not gonna get enough use out of it I think.
i guess one day i just felt like trying it, seriously guarantee its quieter going down the road than a $400,000 Bentley. and of coarse nothing shakes.
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
kramer_212
i guess one day i just felt like trying it, seriously guarantee its quieter going down the road than a $400,000 Bentley. and of coarse nothing shakes.
It was a good day... :P
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
West
It was a good day... :P
yes and know it was an expensive day about 2 weeks later was a good day lol.
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
kramer_212
yes and know it was an expensive day about 2 weeks later was a good day lol.
It would be very difficult for me to pony up that much money when my speakers didn't even cost as much as the dampening. I bet it is something very cool though... Can you hear sirens when they drive by?
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
No car is that soundproof.....the side glass doesn't come acoustical. All the noise you will get in cabin will be through the side glass if you somehow manage to get the rest of the car silent.
Finding acoustical windshields is hard enough. They usually only come on the higher end vehicles. Ford seems to carry to most though.
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
West
It would be very difficult for me to pony up that much money when my speakers didn't even cost as much as the dampening. I bet it is something very cool though... Can you hear sirens when they drive by?
i don't live in the hood lol im sure i could though, i replaced the window seals but it seems like the little noise that comes in is from/around the windows.
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
Also look at some of the cdt Es 3 way sets
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
CHEMMINS
No car is that soundproof.....the side glass doesn't come acoustical. All the noise you will get in cabin will be through the side glass if you somehow manage to get the rest of the car silent.
Finding acoustical windshields is hard enough. They usually only come on the higher end vehicles. Ford seems to carry to most though.
right, think i went with pcm brand.
although i did put acoustical tint on the back/side windows or film i guess they call it
HAVERKAMP sun protection film technology
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
mylows10
Also look at some of the cdt Es 3 way sets
they look nice and seem to be decently priced.
the biggest reason i like audison is every single component used in every one of there products are built in house, even the capacitors etc.....so quality control is all under one company roof.
---------- Post added at 11:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:51 PM ----------
Quote:
Originally Posted by
CHEMMINS
No car is that soundproof.....the side glass doesn't come acoustical. All the noise you will get in cabin will be through the side glass if you somehow manage to get the rest of the car silent.
Finding acoustical windshields is hard enough. They usually only come on the higher end vehicles. Ford seems to carry to most though.
but your right sound still comes through the windows.
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
1. should i put a 6.5 and tweeters in the center or leave the 3 inchers.
Just a 3" in the center is sufficient. More than that sacrifices placement and introduces phase interference issues. KISS
2. 2 6.5s in front door or a 6.5 and an 8
Don't mix sizes in the same airspace. I vote just one 8" midbass. KISS
3. 3 way comp in rear doors or put them in the rear deck (fiberglessed into c-pillar)
Why? Rear highs are not advised. Just the 3's are sufficient for rear fill.
4. the bit ten seems to be a better option thoughts?
A good choice if you want a center channel.
5. any other suggestions (I;m staying with the voce series) as far as speaker amount/ location im fine with taking away or adding speakers.
Less is better overall. Keep it simple. I see hundreds of hours of effort in this build.
6. thinking active the bit ten has 8 channels 10 if you include the center and subwoofer. or should i do a passive system.
Active
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
keep_hope_alive
1. should i put a 6.5 and tweeters in the center or leave the 3 inchers.
Just a 3" in the center is sufficient. More than that sacrifices placement and introduces phase interference issues. KISS
2. 2 6.5s in front door or a 6.5 and an 8
Don't mix sizes in the same airspace. I vote just one 8" midbass. KISS
3. 3 way comp in rear doors or put them in the rear deck (fiberglessed into c-pillar)
Why? Rear highs are not advised. Just the 3's are sufficient for rear fill.
4. the bit ten seems to be a better option thoughts?
A good choice if you want a center channel.
5. any other suggestions (I;m staying with the voce series) as far as speaker amount/ location im fine with taking away or adding speakers.
Less is better overall. Keep it simple. I see hundreds of hours of effort in this build.
6. thinking active the bit ten has 8 channels 10 if you include the center and subwoofer. or should i do a passive system.
Active
thanks secretly i was waiting for you to chime in.
so you think i shouldn't use a 6.5 at all?
and should i put an 8 or 6.5 and a 3 in the rear door or rear deck area?
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
thing is, a 6.5 is fine in a 2-way system. it has enough range to cover 80Hz-4000Hz. but when you go 3-way the game changes. Now you have a dedicated midrange handling 250 and up. the midbass should focus on reproducing 60Hz and up. a good 6.5 can do this, but a comparable 8" can do it better. I will always prefer a single 8 over two 6.5. i measure (and hear) enough phase interference in a car as it is, no reason to make the problem worse. if you just want it loud, add speakers. if you want it to be accurate and natural, minimize the number of speakers. even the latter can easily leave your ears ringing.
since you are heavily relying on the 3's to do most of the work - invest in them heavily. they should be the most expensive speaker. from there you're just adding a pair of 8's and a pair of tweeters. that's all you really NEED. Anything else is just adding speakers to say you added speakers - but they won't help the end result. the reason is that you don't have enough processing to address a 3-way active front and a 3-way active rear. going passive with them won't sound near as good and you'll lose midbass (despite the # of woofers) from phase interference alone.
you will need 10 outputs though
6 for the front left and right stage (midbass, mid, high)
2 for the rear left and right (ideally L-R mix)
1 for center
1 for sub
i have found that the tweeters don't need time alignment, and they could be on the same output channel as the midrange. so that does afford you the ability to reduce down to 8 channels if need be.
a center requires processing to make it sound natural. you want to remove dedicated left and right channel information and only reproduce with is only in left and only in right. you still have level differences to play with (so IID is addressed) but that can come with aiming. IMO a center is only desired for 2-seat car judging. you don't need it from the driver's seat - you can get a center image just fine with T/A to one seat.
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
keep_hope_alive
thing is, a 6.5 is fine in a 2-way system. it has enough range to cover 80Hz-4000Hz. but when you go 3-way the game changes. Now you have a dedicated midrange handling 250 and up. the midbass should focus on reproducing 60Hz and up. a good 6.5 can do this, but a comparable 8" can do it better. I will always prefer a single 8 over two 6.5. i measure (and hear) enough phase interference in a car as it is, no reason to make the problem worse. if you just want it loud, add speakers. if you want it to be accurate and natural, minimize the number of speakers. even the latter can easily leave your ears ringing.
since you are heavily relying on the 3's to do most of the work - invest in them heavily. they should be the most expensive speaker. from there you're just adding a pair of 8's and a pair of tweeters. that's all you really NEED. Anything else is just adding speakers to say you added speakers - but they won't help the end result. the reason is that you don't have enough processing to address a 3-way active front and a 3-way active rear. going passive with them won't sound near as good and you'll lose midbass (despite the # of woofers) from phase interference alone.
you will need 10 outputs though
6 for the front left and right stage (midbass, mid, high)
2 for the rear left and right (ideally L-R mix)
1 for center
1 for sub
i have found that the tweeters don't need time alignment, and they could be on the same output channel as the midrange. so that does afford you the ability to reduce down to 8 channels if need be.
a center requires processing to make it sound natural. you want to remove dedicated left and right channel information and only reproduce with is only in left and only in right. you still have level differences to play with (so IID is addressed) but that can come with aiming. IMO a center is only desired for 2-seat car judging. you don't need it from the driver's seat - you can get a center image just fine with T/A to one seat.
makes sence, maybe ill scratch the center channel and put a touch screen there.
Re: Mid level SQL Build Input.