Ideas that can be done during testing? Seat position, ect?
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Ideas that can be done during testing? Seat position, ect?
way to many to begin to list, just start trying stupid stuff. how high the head rests are seat position, depending on which orginazation, which and how many windows/doors open and how far.
getting the the point your worrying about 1/10's it just takes hours of testing.
Im talking just general sealed up. Stuff like steering wheel postion and what not. glove box open I heard also? Stuff that can be done without add more freaking money.
every car and every install reacts differently, the only way to really know what works for you is to get on the meter for a few hours and just try different things, clean/wax the dash on a hot day and see a .1-.2 gain (ive seen that happen a few times) change the box position slightly turn the enclosure to different positions to see which one it loads better in.
The box is the only thing i cant move. It is where it is
some have been mentioned already but: seats bottoms forward or backward, seatbacks upright or leaned, headrest positions, glove box open/closed, steering wheel (tilt and telescope if applicable), windows up/down with various sizes, doors closed/various opening sizes, position of meter (driver or pass side), a/c on/off or testing in cool weather vs warm weather, position of box in car, aiming of box in car, adding weight to flexing areas outside the car aka laying on it lol, armrest, rearview mirror and sunvisor positions too
Also i heard about the vents open or closed. Ill go over the stuff you guys have listed
ive seen people move the seats all the way forward, remove the headrests, flip the passenger seat forward, and flip the drivers seat forward as far as you can with you in it
Also try flipping the floor mats upside down so the rubber is up instead of the carpeted side. I saw a explorer pick up .2 with this trick.
Remove the back seat cushions and play with head rest positions.
also visors forward or straight down,even touching the headrests of the seats when all the way forward.remove dash mat,if an suv tilt back seats flat,frt seats flat ,port on drivers side always,subs up port can be up,frt,back,depends on vehicle.also add more 0 gauge.i went from 3 runs to 8 runs and gained almost 1 db by its self.close all openings too.
ive been waiting for this type of info lol. i take it you have a suv since know so much. my ports are on drives side... so ur saying lay the back seats flat. and lay fronts seats all the way back(flat)?Quote:
Originally Posted by mylows10
i just got my 4 runner ,but i have done extensive work on suv's ,these are just a few little tricks that i have learned over the years.now keep in mind that some of these tricks will work and some not thats why you need to experiment before shows.also the biggest thing is the placement of the box.i've seen in the past by just moving the box forward or back just a few inches can be the difference between 1-2 db by its self in some suv's
In relation to the thread, when getting metered if my system gets louder with both windows open (front) is it cheating the numbers? or do you always want to do it with windows up.
depends on the format. Most are completly sealed up unless its a headrest meterQuote:
Originally Posted by vISUALHype