Tweeter Spheres - pics and examples

[trumpet]

I also didnt intend for them to stick out so far but it was what I had and I dont think it looks bad, so I left it. I might switch up to shorter "threaded nipples" later though

The distance away from the pillar and windows may be helping to reduce reflections. That might be the same distance I have my spheres from my A-pillars and my tweeters are (supposed to be) aimed across the dash. I messed up when I drilled the driver's side hole in the pillar trim, but even with wonky aiming the tweeter has virtually disappeared if I close my eyes.

[keep_hope_alive]

Agreed that you want some distance between the cup and any surface.

I can check the Menards skew, but they were Bostitch brand. Same as this
Buy the Bostitch ISWIVEL-14M Swivel - 1/4 inch MPT at Hardware World



They have limited movement so you should still angle them where you want and fine-tune from there. Also, you have to glue the smaller end on, use of adhesives is required, maybe a set screw.

[Why So Cereal?]

Went ahead and took out the PVC caps today and did the wooden spheres. Looks a whole lot cleaner to me.

[keep_hope_alive]

looks great!

[groundpound4200]

Does someone have a link to the theory behind this?

[Why So Cereal?]

Does someone have a link to the theory behind this?

I got a bit of info from here :Improve Your Soundstage for $2 - DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality

Then, I just did some reading up on diffraction, diffusion, and reflections from random articles and books in my local Books-A-Million.

[groundpound4200]

sweet.... will read after work. Thanks

[5.3bowtie]

Thought I would share what I did on my 2002 Chevy Silverado today. I decided to go with the pvc caps because I dont have the right tools for the wood spheres. I also used the swivel mounts that were linked a few pages back in this thread. When using these swivel mounts there are a couple of things to note. First, the swivel is not very tight so I added an o-ring to shim the joint so that it would hold the weight of the tweeter. Second, the largest gauge wire that can be fit through the joint is probably 22 ga. I used 24 ga. for mine. Third, a 1/2 inch drill bit is about the right size to be able to start the joint by hand and then tghten it up with a wrench.

Well on to the pics. The A-pillar panels will be wrapped with marine vynal to cover up the holes from the previous install.

[Why So Cereal?]

I need to add something to help my "nipps" hold the tweeter weight too. I might be looking to change tweets soon too and hoping my spheres will work for new tweets.

[sigis]

Is there a reason why you'd not just mount these on the dash and aim them where you'd like. Maybe closer to where the post meets the dash so they are semi hidden.

[whitedragon551]

Is there a reason why you'd not just mount these on the dash and aim them where you'd like. Maybe closer to where the post meets the dash so they are semi hidden.

Plenty of explanations throughout this thread.

[keep_hope_alive]

i was thinking about adding a set screw (recessed hex) to hold the swivel in place.

[keep_hope_alive]

not spheres, because the ES-010 won't work in spheres. but here is a cup design. 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The apillar handle reduces locations there.

angle from sail panel to C-pillar is 40 degrees. that is the aiming position i am going for.

final result (painted to match vehicle)






to hold the tweeters, i used closed cell foam, works great. they are rotatable, removable, but will stay put.



solder and heat shrink on tweeter terminals

[keep_hope_alive]

how i got a 40 deg angle








in a vehicle similar to @JEEPWJ4.7

[splwj47]

beauty man cant wait to get these in my jeep