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Thread: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

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    geolemon's Avatar
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    Yes - sealed boxes are less sensitive to small errors in internal volume than other types - but it has to be included with any box calculation.

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    khanhfat is offline Senior VIP Member
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    nice stiicky i just found out this one til today after 3 months surfing this forum..... I'll go ahead and DIY my box now and saves money instead of having some1 building it.

  3. #138
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    Helped me out!
    Brought From: psychoacoustics

  4. #139
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    Lots of great info in this thread. I saw some unanswered questions along the way, but I don't know that the original posters are still around, so I won't go quoting/answering. As I'm trying to get back into car audio I'll be frequenting the board more often and can help answer them as they come.

    For the record, I agree with the few posters in here that have said there is almost no case where a sealed box will perform better that a ported box... only when faced with huge size constraints would I sacrifice the efficiency that the ported box brings to go sealed. Efficiency can go a long way to improving sound quality, especially with the mammoth subs a lot of you SPL guys run.
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    Dougsub is offline Member
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxrjjordan View Post
    Lots of great info in this thread. I saw some unanswered questions along the way, but I don't know that the original posters are still around, so I won't go quoting/answering. As I'm trying to get back into car audio I'll be frequenting the board more often and can help answer them as they come.

    For the record, I agree with the few posters in here that have said there is almost no case where a sealed box will perform better that a ported box... only when faced with huge size constraints would I sacrifice the efficiency that the ported box brings to go sealed. Efficiency can go a long way to improving sound quality, especially with the mammoth subs a lot of you SPL guys run.
    I agree even after this being 4 years old great info...thanks

  6. #141
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    this was one of the most helpful threads ive ever read.

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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    Moved....
    Last edited by GeddyLee; 12-25-2008 at 09:09 PM. Reason: Moved to different section. Sorry :)

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    97srad750 is offline CarAudio.com Elite
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    So if I have this correct. All things being equal vehicle & power the order of loudness built to woofer specs is bandpass then ported then sealed. Am I correct?
    Bought from: FJF (DEI 750d), orangelss (D2205), PsychoTheRapist (JBL Comps), BallinByNature (TV), AudioFreak (sunglasses), IloveBass (American Bass Coax's), 92c1v1c (PSP), jester6435 (belt buckles), RyanM923 (box design), cleansoundz (Hifonics BX1500d)

    Sold to: subydude81 (CDT coaxials), C5! (cfa602), howdogg (assasin subs)

    96 2 Door Yukon
    System
    Head Unit: Kenwood KDC-X592
    Amp-DEI 750D
    Sub: 13W1 ported
    Amp: DEI 750d
    Doors: Memphis 4 x 10's in rear, undecided on front so stockers for now

  9. #144
    *Honda*Bass* is offline *Honda*Bass*
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    I'm sure you guys are going to attack me for this, but so be it. I have 2 kicker l7 15's and a 94 Honda accord trunk. I don't have them in yet because the amps i have now aren't big enough, but that's besides the point. I built a quick box for them just for something to hold me over until I make another (proabably build one inside my trunk. The box I built is 36" x 18"x 10.5". Thats a rough estimate just know it's small and also its a PORTED box. I got did it and it came to be about 1.5 cubic feet per sub. Will this sound like shit? How bad is this for these subs? Its temporary, but should I use the box at all? Thank you!
    94 Honda Accord LX
    HU: Alpine IVA-D310
    Front Stage:Polk Audio MM6 comps., DB1000 tweeters
    Back Stage: Polk Audio MMC690
    4ch. Amp: Alpine MRP-F240 and Alpine PDX 4.100
    Wires: Monster, mostly Stinger 1/0,
    Subs: 2- 15" Kicker L7's 4ohm
    Sub Amp: Hifonics BXI2607D
    Capacitor: Kole Audio CD-6
    Circuit Breaker: Stinger 150 amp
    Fuse/Dist. Block: Stinger SHD4AGU
    Battery: Kinetic HC600 and a Duracell
    Alternator: 160 amp Boss

  10. #145
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    Quote Originally Posted by *Honda*Bass* View Post
    I'm sure you guys are going to attack me for this, but so be it. I have 2 kicker l7 15's and a 94 Honda accord trunk. I don't have them in yet because the amps i have now aren't big enough, but that's besides the point. I built a quick box for them just for something to hold me over until I make another (proabably build one inside my trunk. The box I built is 36" x 18"x 10.5". Thats a rough estimate just know it's small and also its a PORTED box. I got did it and it came to be about 1.5 cubic feet per sub. Will this sound like shit? How bad is this for these subs? Its temporary, but should I use the box at all? Thank you!
    what's the tuning on it? Or do you not know the tuning?


    Quote Originally Posted by jco1385 View Post
    please follow instructions in dragnix sig
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  11. #146
    *Honda*Bass* is offline *Honda*Bass*
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    yea I have no idea. Im not a noob at car audio (know more than the people I know and do car audio with), but when it comes to the most of you I know shit squat. I'm a noob. I even know how to tune... im guessingits the size of the port.?
    94 Honda Accord LX
    HU: Alpine IVA-D310
    Front Stage:Polk Audio MM6 comps., DB1000 tweeters
    Back Stage: Polk Audio MMC690
    4ch. Amp: Alpine MRP-F240 and Alpine PDX 4.100
    Wires: Monster, mostly Stinger 1/0,
    Subs: 2- 15" Kicker L7's 4ohm
    Sub Amp: Hifonics BXI2607D
    Capacitor: Kole Audio CD-6
    Circuit Breaker: Stinger 150 amp
    Fuse/Dist. Block: Stinger SHD4AGU
    Battery: Kinetic HC600 and a Duracell
    Alternator: 160 amp Boss

  12. #147
    tRiGgEr's Avatar
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    Quote Originally Posted by *Honda*Bass* View Post
    yea I have no idea. Im not a noob at car audio (know more than the people I know and do car audio with), but when it comes to the most of you I know shit squat. I'm a noob. I even know how to tune... im guessingits the size of the port.?
    Wow this is starting off bad. How did you port it, if you don't know how to design a ported enclosure?

    I suggest you take it out before damaging your equipment. Build a temporary sealed enclosure for them until you figure out how you're going to go about building a proper ported enclosure.

    I would love to see pictures of your current ported box
    Quote Originally Posted by Scoobydoo View Post
    Before poking fun at others at least learn to spell. I won't go into all the gammar mistakes!
    Irony?

    Quote Originally Posted by audioholic View Post
    Your sig... Im trying to figure out if you think he spelled grammar wrong. Because, he didn't. Irony indeed.

  13. #148
    dragnix's Avatar
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    should've gone with a sealed box


    Quote Originally Posted by jco1385 View Post
    please follow instructions in dragnix sig
    Fixxer is a POS seller/trader, don't buy from him

    Refs
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  14. #149
    *Honda*Bass* is offline *Honda*Bass*
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    Quote Originally Posted by tRiGgEr View Post
    Wow this is starting off bad. How did you port it, if you don't know how to design a ported enclosure?

    I suggest you take it out before damaging your equipment. Build a temporary sealed enclosure for them until you figure out how you're going to go about building a proper ported enclosure.

    I would love to see pictures of your current ported box
    lmao... actually to be quiet honest I went off a previous box. The box looks nice and professional. When I got the box someone previous already chopped it down to fit into there vehicle. It wouldn't fit in mine nor did they do it right (sealing it, carpeting and there was about a 1/4 gap literally for the air to get to the port.) so I decided just for the mean time I would cut it down, and redo everything. I cut the box back a good 5" more than the previous person did. Then I left a 2" gap for the air to get to the port. IDK 2" sounded good. I hope you guys understand what I am talking about. I am in college so cant take pics. Its in my room till I get a amp.
    94 Honda Accord LX
    HU: Alpine IVA-D310
    Front Stage:Polk Audio MM6 comps., DB1000 tweeters
    Back Stage: Polk Audio MMC690
    4ch. Amp: Alpine MRP-F240 and Alpine PDX 4.100
    Wires: Monster, mostly Stinger 1/0,
    Subs: 2- 15" Kicker L7's 4ohm
    Sub Amp: Hifonics BXI2607D
    Capacitor: Kole Audio CD-6
    Circuit Breaker: Stinger 150 amp
    Fuse/Dist. Block: Stinger SHD4AGU
    Battery: Kinetic HC600 and a Duracell
    Alternator: 160 amp Boss

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    *Honda*Bass* is offline *Honda*Bass*
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    Re: SEALED vs PORTED (basic info.)

    Hope these help show the port more lol.

    <a href="http://s441.photobucket.com/albums/qq131/honda4lif3/?action=view&current=IMG00004.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq131/honda4lif3/IMG00004.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    <a href="http://s441.photobucket.com/albums/qq131/honda4lif3/?action=view&current=IMG00003.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq131/honda4lif3/IMG00003.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
    94 Honda Accord LX
    HU: Alpine IVA-D310
    Front Stage:Polk Audio MM6 comps., DB1000 tweeters
    Back Stage: Polk Audio MMC690
    4ch. Amp: Alpine MRP-F240 and Alpine PDX 4.100
    Wires: Monster, mostly Stinger 1/0,
    Subs: 2- 15" Kicker L7's 4ohm
    Sub Amp: Hifonics BXI2607D
    Capacitor: Kole Audio CD-6
    Circuit Breaker: Stinger 150 amp
    Fuse/Dist. Block: Stinger SHD4AGU
    Battery: Kinetic HC600 and a Duracell
    Alternator: 160 amp Boss

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