::TESTED:: Audiopipe AP30001D

[vehementSPL]

Audiopipe 3000D > Two Fusion 2000.1's.
Both Ran at 4 ohms Strapped/Bridged.

Tough little bastard.
I think I might actually buy one instead of borrowing it from a friend.

So the audiopipe was louder at 4 ohm then two fusion 2000.1's at 4 ohms

[Bigpimpin91]

So the audiopipe was louder at 4 ohm then two fusion 2000.1's at 4 ohms

Yes. Earing it by about 1db.

No TL to get official Scores.

[audioarsonal]

Non-inductive resistors will basically give you a "dummy load" that has no impeadance rise.

[Haunz]

A DMM and a craftsman professional True RMS clamp meter. I am not going to lie I am not sure what the non inductive resistors do. But last time I checked amperage times voltage is wattage. Also I didn't play with it by the way to find max output I just did a 45hz test tone maybe this weekend I will play with it a little to see if I can get over 2kw at the low voltage. And I am using the same method that the beloved sundowns are tested at

Using subwoofers you have a reactive load that has inductive and capacitive components.. and what you are measuring is apparent power, and not real power.. so unless you know what the inductance and capacitance of the load is and can account for power factor, your numbers are basically meaningless.. (I suggest you wikipedia 'power factor' for a more indepth explination)


Non inductive resistors have no inductance or capacitance and provide a dead load which makes it much easier to measure real power output... If you want to know more about how to set something that will work up PM me..


FYI you should be using a 60hz tone if your DMM is not true RMS.. probably best for the accuracy of the craftsman clamp too.. (which are not very accurate to begin with)

[vehementSPL]

Using subwoofers you have a reactive load that has inductive and capacitive components.. and what you are measuring is apparent power, and not real power.. so unless you know what the inductance and capacitance of the load is and can account for power factor, your numbers are basically meaningless.. (I suggest you wikipedia 'power factor' for a more indepth explination)


Non inductive resistors have no inductance or capacitance and provide a dead load which makes it much easier to measure real power output... If you want to know more about how to set something that will work up PM me..


FYI you should be using a 60hz tone if your DMM is not true RMS.. probably best for the accuracy of the craftsman clamp too.. (which are not very accurate to begin with)

I realize it isn't accurate other than 60hz if not a true RMS meter. I think the tolerence on my meter is plus minus 3 percent. And and you are basically saying Just to find out what the thing really does at 2 ohms mono use non inductive resistors.. But I don't care honestly what it does at 2 ohms because mine will never see true 2 ohms. I have to admit your knowledge of electronics is probably a bit more up to date than mine but amperage times voltage IS watts. Maybe not give me the load I need but it tells me at 4.6 ohms. and There again I am sure you know more than I do. Besides this is the same test everybody does when they test kicker /rockrord etc amps in their vehicle. If you can tell me the difference the test with show and at the same ohm what percentage difference I should see

[Haunz]

^ your meter is +/- 3% PLUS 8 counts (or something like that).. it works out to a lot more then 3%...


Your assumption that if you multiply the volts and amps you are reading you will find wattage is wrong.. I'm guessing that you either did not bother looking up power factor on wikipedia like I suggested, or you didn't understand it..


It may be the same kind of test everyone else uses.. so congradulations.. you are just as misinformed as 99% of the rest of the kids on caraudio forums..

[thegr8cody]

so is it a 2 channel or a mono i got a dual 1.5 so its either .75 ohm or 3 ohm lol will the amp hold up to .75?

[Apocalypse boy]

see you lurking jbl lol...thnks to you this bishh is on it's way to me :-)

[PioneerSPL1990]

yeah he measured with a 45 hz signal if it was more then you should be wining becouse with the lower fq his numbers were probably less than the what the amp was actually doing, just slightly. and that is for AC but thats only like a 250mV difference on the scope. close enough your test probably isn't any more than 300-400 watts off and probably for the better anyway. plus his resistance was higher than what most subswould present bay around .6 ohm-.8ohm. which also makes the true number higher.


i was told by my electrical engineering proffesor to try a water heater element for the load, to dissipate the heat and handle the 4000W but i'll have to research it and have him explain it better. he said i might be able to do it sometime in the next couple weeks so i'll post the results when im done.


and his voltage dropped, he was only on 4 ga as well......

these amps have the balls. its almost put my pioneer's VC into the magnet a couple times and that thing has +3" P-P in it.

[PioneerSPL1990]

oh pioneer premier TS-w8102SPL. car sits @ 14.87V and drops to 14.35V @ 30 sec 13.15V @ 2 min. (Trunk Battery)
102amp alt, 1 kinetik HC1800, 2 stinger 5 farads and stock battery up front 1 run of 0 grounds are all 1/0 doubled up amp is single ground on dual bar ground with hc1800.

[SPLaudio]

very powerful amps best bang for ur dollar out there. might be running one on a 10" this yr...

[Lakota]

New forum boner?

[JBLCAMRY]

New forum boner?

I know they sure did surprise me.

[SPLaudio]

the 30001 have been out for 2 yrs now. now audiopipe has a 2500.1 and 3500.1 strappable too. i am going to find out release date today...

[SPLaudio]

they are said to hit in about 6-10day to the distributors.