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Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="johnecon2001" data-source="post: 1642120" data-attributes="member: 556589"><p>--------------------------------------------</p><p></p><p><strong>Beginning the Project</strong></p><p></p><p>1) Start out by disconnecting your <strong>Battery Negative</strong>. This will interrupt power through the whole system allowing you to safely work on the vehicle without danger to you or the cars more fragile electronic devices.</p><p></p><p>2) Sand down the potential grounding point for the new <strong>Chassis</strong> to <strong>Battery Negative</strong> point. This should be shiny metal when you’re done. You want as clean of a connection as possible. If you use the existing ground point you may not have to drill a new hole for a screw. Sand around it to ensure a good connection, you may also want to smear some anti-oxidation grease on the uncoated metal to prevent rust. This connection must be tight and secure when you’re done.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/06.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>4) Screw the new ground wire in place but <strong>DO NOT</strong> reconnect it to the <strong>Battery Negative</strong> yet. Lay it down on a piece of cloth or paper and wait to connect it till after you finish the other elements of the project.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/07.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>5) It’s time to add onto the existing <strong>Alternator Positive</strong> wire. This can be a bit tricky due to a small plastic collar around the positive lead coming off of the alt. It really only allows you to use one ring terminal terminated wire on the alt. That is perfectly fine though. Break off a little of the plastic if the extra wire refuses to fit. There should be a rubber gasket over the existing wire that will protect it.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/010.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Again, make sure that the wire is hooked snug on the terminal and not exposed to the elements.</p><p></p><p>6) Take the other end of the <strong>Alternator Positive</strong> wire and if you so choose, run it through the fuse holder. If you’ve decided to not get a fuse holder, then run it straight to the battery positive.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/011-1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>7) Attach the wire along the way to something that won’t get too hot and that won’t vibrate too terribly. Go ahead and connect the wire to the positive battery terminal.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/09.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>8) The last step is the <strong>Chassis</strong> to <strong>Engine Block</strong> wire. Remember to sand both points well, just like the when you did the <strong>Battery Negative</strong> to <strong>Chassis</strong>. All you need to do for this step is to find a non-essential bolt on the engine block to attach the wire to. Non-essentials are those that don’t hold a liquid in. For example… using the Oil Drain plug as an attachment point probably isn’t the smartest place.</p><p></p><p>9) Take the other end leading off of the engine block and sand a smooth place on the chassis. If you want to do more than one lead off of the block that would be fine as well. The more the merrier.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/013.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>10) You’re just about done. Re-check all of the new and old connections you just fiddled with to ensure stability, safe connection and good contact. After you’ve made sure everything is safe, you may re-attach the <strong>Battery Negative</strong> wire to the negative terminal on the battery.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/08.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Congratulations! You’ve just completed the cheapest and easiest upgrade to your electrical system that there is. If this doesn’t take care of your questions, please post them in this thread and we’ll try to answer them for you.</p><p></p><p>**John**</p><p></p><p>Just as a reference, below is the original Sound Domain link where much of this information was gleaned from, the original CA.com thread is also located below for reference. All pictures contained in this thread are possession of johnecon2001 and are for informational and educational purpose only.</p><p></p><p><a href="http:////forum/showthread.php?t=124175" target="_blank">http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124175</a></p><p></p><p><a href="http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801" target="_blank">http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="johnecon2001, post: 1642120, member: 556589"] -------------------------------------------- [B]Beginning the Project[/B] 1) Start out by disconnecting your [B]Battery Negative[/B]. This will interrupt power through the whole system allowing you to safely work on the vehicle without danger to you or the cars more fragile electronic devices. 2) Sand down the potential grounding point for the new [B]Chassis[/B] to [B]Battery Negative[/B] point. This should be shiny metal when you’re done. You want as clean of a connection as possible. If you use the existing ground point you may not have to drill a new hole for a screw. Sand around it to ensure a good connection, you may also want to smear some anti-oxidation grease on the uncoated metal to prevent rust. This connection must be tight and secure when you’re done. [IMG]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/06.jpg[/IMG] 4) Screw the new ground wire in place but [B]DO NOT[/B] reconnect it to the [B]Battery Negative[/B] yet. Lay it down on a piece of cloth or paper and wait to connect it till after you finish the other elements of the project. [IMG]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/07.jpg[/IMG] 5) It’s time to add onto the existing [B]Alternator Positive[/B] wire. This can be a bit tricky due to a small plastic collar around the positive lead coming off of the alt. It really only allows you to use one ring terminal terminated wire on the alt. That is perfectly fine though. Break off a little of the plastic if the extra wire refuses to fit. There should be a rubber gasket over the existing wire that will protect it. [IMG]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/010.jpg[/IMG] Again, make sure that the wire is hooked snug on the terminal and not exposed to the elements. 6) Take the other end of the [B]Alternator Positive[/B] wire and if you so choose, run it through the fuse holder. If you’ve decided to not get a fuse holder, then run it straight to the battery positive. [IMG]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/011-1.jpg[/IMG] 7) Attach the wire along the way to something that won’t get too hot and that won’t vibrate too terribly. Go ahead and connect the wire to the positive battery terminal. [IMG]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/09.jpg[/IMG] 8) The last step is the [B]Chassis[/B] to [B]Engine Block[/B] wire. Remember to sand both points well, just like the when you did the [B]Battery Negative[/B] to [B]Chassis[/B]. All you need to do for this step is to find a non-essential bolt on the engine block to attach the wire to. Non-essentials are those that don’t hold a liquid in. For example… using the Oil Drain plug as an attachment point probably isn’t the smartest place. 9) Take the other end leading off of the engine block and sand a smooth place on the chassis. If you want to do more than one lead off of the block that would be fine as well. The more the merrier. [IMG]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/013.jpg[/IMG] 10) You’re just about done. Re-check all of the new and old connections you just fiddled with to ensure stability, safe connection and good contact. After you’ve made sure everything is safe, you may re-attach the [B]Battery Negative[/B] wire to the negative terminal on the battery. [IMG]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-4/1168082/08.jpg[/IMG] Congratulations! You’ve just completed the cheapest and easiest upgrade to your electrical system that there is. If this doesn’t take care of your questions, please post them in this thread and we’ll try to answer them for you. **John** Just as a reference, below is the original Sound Domain link where much of this information was gleaned from, the original CA.com thread is also located below for reference. All pictures contained in this thread are possession of johnecon2001 and are for informational and educational purpose only. [URL="http:////forum/showthread.php?t=124175"]http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124175[/URL] [URL="http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801"]http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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